I have no problem felling a tree, notch the side you want it to fall to, slice the other side and down she goes... never had a problem. But most of the tree's I get are already down from storms, blown over, mostly from the roots in muddy ground, like the below big Pine tree. The tree is a lot bigger than it appears in the pics for some reason, it's a 37" diameter at one point. So it's big and heavy, and has a nice and straight trunk for a pretty darn long length which I don't get often. Lots of good wood on there. Anyway, so I want to buck this one up. Whenever I try to cut a tree laying on it's side but up in the air a bit like this, I often have a problem getting the bar stuck. I'm getting better, using the wedges more, but still get into too many "sticky" situations. So what's the best way to attack these? I know they are all different, but what is the basic technique to try? Where do you start cutting, close to the base to get it to drop to the ground OR from the top of the tree triming the branches first...?
I like to limb the tree first, makes working on the rest of the log easier IMO. For the log, you want to start cutting on the compression side, and finish on the tension side. Gravity wants to pull that tree down to the ground. Imagine what will happen if you just start cutting from the top - when the trunk starts moving towards the ground, it would pinch the bar. What you want to do is cut about 1/3 of the way through from the top, and then finish the cut from the bottom up. As the trunk dives toward the ground, the bottom of the cut will open up, so no chance getting pinched there. I like to make a couple cuts to get it into manageable sections resting on the ground, then I'll finish bucking from there. Once it's fully resting on the ground, it won't want to pinch the bar nearly as much.
I always use a felling wedge now with big stuff on the ground. I'll get 1/2 way thru and drive one in hard and it's cured most of my yankin' & pullin' & yellin' & swearin' and... well... you know...
That looks like the Long Island woods I know, Machria! x2 on the above comments, wedges are definitely good for alleviating Stinny's (& everyone else) yankin' & pullin' & yellin' & swearin'.... The bottom most pic- looks like the root ball to the left, yes? Ever see one of those right itself? Be careful with that, man! Post some in-process pics? Eric VW
First Machria, congratulations on the mess. That is a nasty looking top. As for limbing first or later, I have no preference on this as it just depends upon the tree. Usually though, I do not limb first but only if I want to cut in one particular spot I'll limb in that small area. One thing I like to do if at all possible is to first lay down a limb or 3 or 4 so when the log drops, it is on a couple limbs rather than laying flat on the ground. This makes the rest of the job go much quicker and easier. Most on this forum like to use wedges. I can't remember a time that I did for this type of cutting. Never could see a reason but if you don't have good technique (which is easy to learn), then a wedge or 3 might save a pinched bar. I never tell a person to cut x inches or maybe 1/3 the way through a log as each can be different. I always start by cutting on the top of the log. But before cutting, I will have determined if after the log is cut, will it want to go one way or another. Sometimes the tree is wedged into some junk and it will have some hard pressure and you need to determine that. One of the first things I do is not only cut at the top but also at the far side. That is, I reach over the log and cut on the opposite side. This, in effect will create a weak point which can be your friend. And I may cut up to half the way through like that. Then go back to the top and cut down but keep a very sharp eye on the kerf. That is the main thing to watch. Any movement and the saw comes out fast. Now you can simply undercut and let it drop....but keep your toes out of the way! Remember those limbs you put underneath? These also can be toe savers. When you drop a tree and it hangs, the process is almost identical except you may have to cut some short logs off the bottom and keep working up. But never forget to create that weak point as it can be a life or limb saver. If there is a lot of pressure, things can happen fast. Without that weak point, it might go the wrong way. Even if it looks like it will go away from you, don't neglect the weak point. When cutting a downed tree like that, it is usually best to buck it into the lengths your stove wants. But we also realize there are some who like to pull the logs out so that is why I didn't comment much on that. I hope I was clear on the instructions but if not, please ask. Cutting stuff like this can be fun but can also be dangerous.
Speakin of yankin and yelling, I had a "good one" last weekend on a cherry tree I got. Had the bar so stuck, I had to go get a 2nd saw to get it out. That was "fun". Yes, that's the ball on left, and I have seen them pop up.... This one doesn't seem to have any or much pressure on the ball/roots so I don't think that will be an issue. Problem is, all of the weight of this tree is leaning on branches. If you look close, there is a big branch on the left side of pic it is laying on / holding it up, and the obvious branches on the right side it's laying on. The trunk is pretty high off the ground as well, about 4' in the middle.
Well that's probably why Dennis' explanation was better than mine. Every tree will be different. However, when it's supported on limbs, you should absolutely deal with those first before cutting into the log. If you don't, they'll create pivot points, and you don't want a 1000lb log doing anything unexpected when you're standing 6 inches away.
Great stuff there, thanks Backwoods! I LOVE the idea of laying a few limbs under it first! What a ding dong, I never thought of that, great idea, especially on a trunk this big and heavy. It's going to be tought to move before bucked up.
You're right Eric... uprighting rootballs... gotta be careful and be sure you don't have any little ones playing nearby. Maine lost one a few year's back... he was playing right under the entire thing...
Can't give much good advice beyond what you already got. I see in your photos it looks like a lot of weeds or vines, maybe brambles have grown up all around that tree? The first thing I'd do is get that all stomped down or cut out of there, because the last thing you want to do is trip on that crap and take a header with a running saw in your hands. Limb it first and use chunks of the limbs or top to support the rest of the trunk. Working up a big tree like that is a lot of fun for me, but it also an exercise in observation and judgement. Take your time.
This seems like a good place to plug a book I got (by request) for Christmas: Jeff Jepson's To Fell A Tree. It's very readable, with plenty of clear illustrations. Besides describing how to put a tree safely on the ground in various situations, it suggests methods for limbing, bucking and moving chunks of wood around. Lots of great information in a small package.
There is a good video on you tube about bucking trees it's the whole process from felling to bucking but it's a good one. Husqvarna produced it
Couple years ago I got a bar pinched and couldn't get it out. No problem,I took the powerhead off and put on my spare bar and promptly got that one stuck also! Had to call one of my drivers who just happened to be a couple of miles away,"umm... you got a chainsaw in your truck"? Bad part was I was cutting beside the road and cars were driving by and looking. Gary
"Hey honey, wasn't that the weird firewood hoarder guy Gary with his saw stuck in a tree?" I hate when that happens
Don't you hate it when you miss something so obvious. Do you have a peavey or cant hook? Also an immeasurably helpful tool if you need to roll over a log to finish the cuts.
I like to work from the top down. I knock the branches off that aren't supporting the tree and knock the ones supporting it off as I work my way down. On cuts I know will bind up the bar I start with a plunge cut leaving a decent amount of wood at the top of the log, when I get through it all the way I move back to the top and knock off the little bit of wood remaining from above the plunge cut. This doesn't work for every situation but that's the way I like to work when possible.
I don't use wedges either. I work from the top down and try to cut any part that's free, limbing it as I go. As long as the tree is off the ground enough to get the bar underneath then it's no problem, start at the top, then cut up from underneath. No matter what go slow and watch for any movement in that tree.
Probably worth stipulating that starting at the top and then finishing the cut from the bottom presumes that the tree is supported at both ends so that the top side is under compression. Sometimes a large part of the tree can be supported from one end, hanging out in space with compression on the bottom and tension on the top. In that case it's generally better to make the initial cut from the bottom and finish from the top, unless you're just nibbling off split-length pieces.
