Has anyone ever set a Oregon 511 up for wet grinding chains? I recently did a chain for a buddy and had problems with heat build up in the tooth. I tried all the usual remedies. I ended up filling a squirt bottle with some HoCut out of the lathe sump and giving the tooth a spritz to help control heat and swarf. I'm thinking about building a catch pan and coolant circulator.
I got a chain back that my "buddy" ground. There will be no filing from here on out. Harder than kelsy's nuts. (whatever that means)?
Yeah he/she/it probably was in a rush and over heated the cutters there by changing the hardness. this chain was werid. I did not recognize the manufactures mark. I always solvent wash and dry before grinding because I know oil and gunk will plug a wheel. I tried resurfacing the wheel before cutting a tooth. Didn't seem to matter.
If you have to use a coolant bath when grinding chain, you are doing it wrong. 1. Lightly keeping the wheel dressed and profiled correctly will have it cutting just fine. 2. Rather than just a single pass, hit the cutter two to three times if you are taking off more than just "kiss". A one second pause allows the heat to dissipate. 3. Resinoid wheels do not generate the heat the vitrified wheels do, but they are softer and leave a better finish but wear faster. (cheap too) http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...ab-Black-Resin-Grinding-Wheel-5-3-4-x-1-8.axd 4. Silvey 8"wheels are all resinoid. 5. I made a bushing so that used worn out Silvey wheels can be used on an Oregon style. (got em free at the saw shop)
