Well I picked this up off ebay as non running. Fired up easily but wouldn't idle. I pulled the muffler and saw no scoring so I assumed it wasn't leaking. I have no way to pressure test nor the knowledge lol. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel line and impulse hose. It ran alot better. Then it got to where you couldn't tune it no matter how much you turned the screws. That's when I noticed the carb leaking. So I bought a carb kit but never installed it. I ended up buying an aftermarket carb. Turned both screws one turn out and it started right up and ran good. My concern is running it to lean. So I bought a tach from the local Stihl dealer. It's an older model that only goes to 9900 rpm. I didn't no this at time of purchase. Anyway I checked it and it's not reading over 6000 rpm. I doubt the saw is that rich because it doesn't smoke maybe a little at start up. I'm taking the tach back and getting something online that will read higher. It should still max out the tach. So bad tach or too rich...possibly bad coil? I took a short vid let me see if I can get it loaded. Sorry for the long winded post and thanks for any help you can give.
Hows about a picture of the tach itself ? The Tiny Tach should be able to read higher RPM, you will have to set the spark pulses per revolution and pay attention to how you wrap the sensor wire around the spark plug wire As far as tuning, you don't need a tach, you just need to know what to listen for; http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/saw-problems.10589/#post-268618 Up until 8 seconds you can hear her 4 stroking, including the start of the cut until enough of the bar and chain is cutting, then she runs clean. @ 17 seconds when I transition off of dogs you can hear it 4 stroke, then again @ 26-27 seconds you hear that 4 stroking sound. That is how all of my saws run, slightly rich, but nice and cool, no tach necessary
Yes I wrapped the wire. Ground might not have been the best. I'll have to try again tomorrow. I watched your vid and it was very helpful. I'm just paranoid about running to lean. I'm new to working on saws.
Did you follow the link for how to adjust the needles ? http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/saw-problems.10589/#post-268618 Its pretty easy once you actually do it.
When first starting out, I understand the caution in running lean - after a while of work, lean running sounds pretty obvious. Strange Stihl dealer would sell a tach for saws that would max in the 9K range - pretty useless at that point. I'd definitely bring back if you can and get a better tach. Cheers!
The info I saw online said it only went to 9k. I will know more tomorrow when I stick it on the 550. If it maxes at 9 it's going back. Yeah they aren't the best dealer I should have known better and grabbed one online. It will be the last thing I buy from them.
On the tag it says 2c for the checked model. There are 1c,2c,4c as part of the models. I am guessing they sold you a tach for a 2 cylinder engine.
Can we assume you don't have the plastic limiter caps on the carb adjusters? If so you need to remove them first. Otherwise one turn out on each is a little off. If you are adjusting metal heads on the adjusters, then you probably don't have the limiter caps on it. And one turn out on each is a good place to start.
