Chimney Damper?

When I had my F3, I had it on the horizontal snout of the tee since I have a fireplace install. It made a huge difference on really cold and windy days. I did regular inspections. The Castine needs all the draft she can take.

I am not sure if there is a written rule, so I will leave that to others. My friend has a Drolet with a damper at the flue outlet at the top of the stove. It is the only control on the stove to regulate temp.

 

I installed my damper about 20" off the stove top. But I have single wall pipe until it gets to the SS thimble going through the wall.

 

Don't have one and have wondered too.

 

Put it straight off the stove or after the appliance adaptor. Most of them will replace the adaptor but check with your dealer.

 

I put one on my small Lopi, one more thing to experiment with.
It works great the first few hours, during the hot part of the burn.
Close her down a bit and it seems to keep the heat in the stove and stretch out the burn.
Less heat waves boiling off the pipe cap the first few hours.
Once into coaling not too much difference.
Worked great for me.

 

Sure can http://www.amazon.com/DuraVent-6DVL-ADWD-Inner-Diameter-Adapter/dp/B003JV7X02

 

Just remember with a lot of this double wall pipe you can't intermingle brands.

 

I used to close my exhaust damper fully during coaling. It helped keep more of the heat in the house during that stage. Of course, it doesn't fully close off the opening. The new Ideal Steel cat/bypass probably does the same thing.

 

I installed an ICC ultrablack 5 inch double wall pipe section with integral flue damper December 18th. Should have done it three years ago when I first installed the stove and was immediately aware of significantly increased draft from my top vent, as compared to my already very strongly drafting previous stove, rear vent.

Amazing difference. I really cannot believe I burned for so long without the flue damper. Except on reload, I keep mine completely closed at all times, which reduces flue opening by 80%. My stove is performing remarkably better. Much more heat, less wood consumed, longer burn times, better control and much better coal burning. No negative about it.

And, I cannot believe, every day when I hear the draft roaring in the pipe shortly after reload, that I was actually burning with that for so long.....

IF you have an excessive draft, higher flue temps, and heat going up the chimney, then I strongly encourage you to get a flue damper.

 

What are your flue temps?

 

Internal or surface and at what stove top temp is that?

 

That was going to be my next question lol

 

He's using a probe with double wall.

 

I use my damper on every load, closing it stepwise along with the primary air control. The secondaries burn so much nicer when the draft is slowed down. On full loads of oak or locust I sometimes restrict the air intake on the underside of the stove 50-75% as well.

You gotta figure, these stoves are configured for wood that has more moisture than us 'three year plan-ners' are using.....