Ok folks, heres the story. I have a 12x16 shed with loft at deer camp that I need a stove in. The propane bill is killing me! I burnt a 20lb tank this weekend alone! It is not finished inside. OSB floor and 2x4 walls. I am looking to vent it out the wall rather than roof. Can ya'll show/tell me what all I need to do this myself? I assume Im going to need one of those prefab wall and floor protectors. How high should the stack go outside? If at all possible, I would like to be able to remove the stove and take it outside for boiling maple syrup so with that said, can the stack stay in place and me move the stove? The pipe I have came with the used stove and is single wall except the piece where previous owner had it going thru a steel plate jammed in a window. Basically, thats what I want...minus the hillbilly steel plate he made for his widow. The goal here is as cheap as possible and not be a fire hazard. Its a $100 POS stove. Help! I want to get parts bought this week for an install this weekend! Thanks in advance.
I'm no expert but this may get you started. Use standard connector pipe from the stove collar to the wall. Most say run 2' vertical from the stove before you turn 90 deg horizontal to go through the wall. This promotes a good draft. To penetrate the wall, you need a wall thimble. Once through the wall, connect to a class A "T". Cap the bottom of the T, this allows you to remove the cap later when you sweep the chimney, letting the creosote fall out the bottom. The weight of class A outside is supported at the bottom by a wall bracket. It also needs braced every X number of feet as it rises (I think that varies by manufacturer-but around 5'). If you penetrate the roof at the overhang, you need a roof flashing an storm collar. Once above the roof it must meet the 10-2-3 rule.
By $100 POS I'm guessing a Boxwood? I don't think they are UL tested. If not you need 36" clearance to combustibles all around. This can be reduced to 12" with a heat shield spaced off the wall 1".
Yup, its a USSC logwood. Same as a boxwood I'm pretty sure. Big POS but it makes heat. Can I not use single wall outside above the Class A "T"? I'm not worried about codes, its a barn! It gets used weekends only and I will keep it swept with the sooteater. After some more googling, prices on these products are too high for my intended purpose IMO. Would hollow cinder blocks on the osb floor work for floor protection? I know this is redneck as hell, but really folks, its just a barn.
I know it's just a barn. If you dont care if it burns to the ground (or are hoping it would ) I'd suggest to vent properly and respect clearances. If your barn is insured and burns down because of your stove you are not covered. There's a saying, "Penny wise..." . Following clearances and proper venting will cost you about $700. Maybe more, maybe less with some shopping. Fantastic deals to be had at most farm stores around Feb/March on all wood burning stuff if you are tight for money.
Ok. After more thought I can go thru the roof to keep from buying as much class a pipe. What is involved in shingles and sealing the roof thimble?
I meant to suggest through the roof as a cheaper alternative earlier (its been a BUSY day for me). Sealing the flashing is easy, just slide it up under the shingles on the top side of the hole. Then install a storm collar above it. If you don't have a flat ceiling you'll need the vault kit. Lowes should have what you need and be competitive on $. You may be able to get by with only on piece of class A. Does the Logwood specify any hearth requirements? If not you'll need ember protection at the min. A piece of sheet metal. You can find R values for blocks on the net, but I'd grout them or cover with metal to keep the embers from getting through the cracks.
NOW we are getting somewhere! Thanks fellas! I have a pile of 4" block there already. Would hardi board or the like on the walls and on top of the blocks work or is there a cheaper way for the wall protection? I havent priced hardi stuff vs. metal vs. pre-fab yet. I watched a few utube vids last night on the flashing install and it looks pretty easy. I couldnt find a good vid on installing the vault kit. Its a typical gambrel style barn roof. Do both of those kits have certain angle restrictions etc? On another note, Looks like insulation is going to cost around $170 for ceiling and walls so thats now on the list too
Well, I got it insulated. R-11 on the walls and ceiling. That definetly helped out! No more burning the 35K btu propane salamander for hours on end! Now my 9k btu buddy heater keeps it warm after a quick 10 minute warm up from the big heater. With that said, I'm still looking for any suggestions that will keep this install safe and cheap!
