How do I cut this down?

I have a few of these, I call them "leaners". It's a tree that has blown down, but didn't make it all the way to the ground, becuase it is laying on another tree that refussed to give up! This one in particular is a fairly big 24" across, and fairly long as you can see. If I cut the other tree down, they will both likely fall down onto my head. If I try to cut the base of the fallen tree, to get it loose, I will likely get into sticky grounds with the chainsaw getting jammed as the tree sags... I can notch it, but...

So how do I attach this? Or do I move on.... (that will be real hard to do! I'm not sure I have the will power to walk away from a long, straight, thick tree like this! )

 

( No pictures attached )
Tough to explain to someone how to cut trees without being there.
Even pictures don't give enough detail. Many variables.

My "Cop Out" :
Get a few bids from some tree services. They might be the best & safest choice.

 

oooops! here ya go. It's very deep into the woods. Not going to get a tree truck to it.

 

Touchy one. A good saw pincher.
Notches & wedges & back-up saw
Slow & little bits at a time watching the stressed areas for movement.
Cut some notches , let gravity work on it a while.
Like you said , be nice to take it.
Slow & smart is key.

 

Get that kid who cut the two snagged leaners over in the youtube video. He knows how to handle the situation.

 

that one looks a bit tricky as its loaded on the butt.
Try taking down the small one on the right that it's partially hung in first. - small cuts and get back
Notch the pine on the top left(8-1 oclock) - wide notch not too far up where you aren't gonna struggle with the bottom cut.
From the pics it looks like it wants to go left so the bottom cut will be made from the right side as it drops it will fall towards you so small extended precise cuts and listen for cracking.
As the butt hits the ground basically re-evaluate and repeat the top notch - these type of trees can be way more work than the wood you get and being it's still alive mother nature may be your friend and do the job for you

 

I just cut up a very similar maple. I studied the tree very carefully..esp for which way it may fall/roll. This was my first solo snag cut. I was very slow in my approach and still managed to pinch my bar a few times. Going back to the truck for the wedges helped but this was the day I confirmed my want for a 2nd saw turned into a need for a second saw...at least that's what I told my wife

Be cautious and you if feel uncomfortable then either pass(I know, it's hard to do) or get somebody to do it and learn from them.

 

Understood, thanks. I'm not looking for "specific advice" on this particular one so much, but more along the lines of what the "normal" plan of attach would be. I know they will all be different, and probably some completely different than others... but there must be a "generalized normal" method that is mostly used. Aka cut it at the bottom, or cut it at the top...

Anyway, the more I look at it the more it really needs a bucket truck or something which isn't going to happen. I don't think I have the experience to attempt it myself. This is going to be a thorn in my side having to stare at this beatiful straight and long piece of wood just itching to get cut and split! DANG! Maybe I'll just kind help the tree it's leaning on along a bit (cut a small slice in it's base) and let mother nature do the rest over the winter....

 

Try a come along, or a tow strap and ATV. Tie the bottom and pull top free. You will be safely out of the way

 

First make sure you have a hard hat on! Then I look up at the tops of the surrounding trees to see how the leaner is supported & how the other trees will react as it comes down. If safe, I work my way up the trunk from the base cutting of 32 or 48" lengths. (I like 16" lengths for firewood.) Here is the key to the cuts: 1st cut down from the top of the round 1/2 the way. Then moving around 3" towards the base cut up from the bottom side. As soon as either the upper cut starts to close or the bottom cut starts to open, back away. By staggering the cuts you are using the connecting wood between the cuts to slow down the separation of the 2 sections. THIS IS NOT A BIG DELAY, but should allow you time to remove your saw from the cut & step back if you are watch close & react immediately to any change in cut openings. Continue the process until the tree comes loose or is almost vertical. If after the first cut you can use a chain attached to the base & pull it down, that would be preferable.

This is a good time to have a second person on stand by in case of emergency with a cell phone handy.

Take it slow & take time to evaluate what will happen with each cut & you can get it done. If at any time you feel uncomfortable, back off & ask a professional for assistance.

 

Hmmmm.... that's an interesting idea... a long and STRONG rope tied around the tree as high as I can reach it, attached to a come along type thingy... and pull he tree sideways to see if it will fall. Just might give that a whirl as I'll be knowwhere near the thing. I'm guessing it will need tobe some strong azz ropes/cables....

 

I think you would have less resistance just pulling the bottom forward.

 

NO! Do not try to tie it high. Fasten to the base! You want it to slide out. If you tie high it has the chance of doing a pole vault & pivot on to you.

Again as the bottom is wedged against the stump, cut off one section to get the leaner away from the stump.

 

First get yourself a pair of boots

 

Like Oliver said the offset cut works well and pull the base of the tree.
If you're scared of the offset cut, basically reverse notching the tree - think you're trying to fall the tree into the air(upwards) so your notch is on top and backcut is from the bottom.
The notch will close under the tree's pressure on the stump so make it wide enough to let the butt hit the ground with room come back over the top to cut the remaining hinge.
If you plan on pulling it put a piece of scrap plywood underneath it will keep the butt from getting buried after freeing it from the rootball