Pellet issue?

Castle is not pumping out the heat this year, and im blowing threw pellets. I picked up 3 tons of timber heat and the heat is not good. I will need to pick up some other brands and see if the problem persists as I never had this prob before regardless of brand. Only other reason I could think of is the end of last yr I had issues when replacing my combustion motor/impeller as documented here: http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/for...ombustion-impeller-question.5481/#post-132910

 

can the new motor/impeller decrease temp if it is moving more air?

 

Yup, what he said.

Also, just curious....what type of cleaning did you give the stove and entire exhaust pipe at the end of last year's heating season? Also, what type of flame are you seeing under "normal" burning conditions?

 

I cleaned it pretty good, esp because I was taking it apart around that time playing around w the combustion motor. The smaller blade impeller I was getting huge lazy flames and burnpot buildup. The larger angled blade gave me a good tight flame. Dollar test is good.

 

The outer casing of the stove doesnt match up well with the hole in the chamber for the combustion blower making removal and install a bit of a pain.

 

Is the "set screw" supposed to limit how far you can open the control rod or the rivit it hits?

 

Have you pulled out all the baffles and done an extensive cleaning in the heat exchangers? A paint brush can do a world of good around the heat exchangers in areas the pull rods can't get to. Flame should be around 4" above the burnpot on high heat mode. I'd also check the trap door under the fire pot to make sure it has rested fully back into position. I've gone out on a few where it didn't quite close and had a small 3/8" or so gap. This will do terrible things for your flame height.

 

As many hundreds(thousands?) use the aftermarket blower unit without any problems,I suspect a stove/cleaning problem.Perhaps you had trouble with new blower as it was installed in a dirty unit,went to bigger impeller,now burns too fast.(just going by your posts).Yes too much combustion air wastes a lot of heat up the stack.Can happen with most stoves(depending on install),have seen where this is a problem with harmans and enviros on both forums.When a pellet stove is installed in europe,the oak comes with an adjustable valve/flap,and they also shut the flap when stove is not running.

 

I know as I read all the good reviews before purchasing. That said (and im sure you hear this all the time and think im prob wrong) the stove was not dirty. Im pretty diligent, even so because a blockage did come to mind I literally tore it appart and disconnected the exhaust and cleaned thoroughly from both ends. On a side note when the new motor did not work (create a vacuum) I lubed up the old motor and threw it back in and although noisey it would work fine for at least a few days untill it would start to grind to a halt.

 

do this all the time. trap door is good.

 

Not saying I need to have it wide open. what I am saying is that the set screw is not limiting the adjustability. A rivit hits the very top of the adjustment rod. Seems like it should be the notch for the setscrew not the top of the rod hitting a rivit.

 

Shot in the dark......does the stove have an OAK? If so, have you checked it for obstructions?

 

also, another shot, but does your venting system have a spark arrestor? They plug, given time....oughta check that too!

 

You may have gotten a bad "new" motor,it happens.

 

No oak, no spark arrestor. Motor bad?????

 

Imacman where in hudson valley are you? Im in cornwall

 

Bob's right it does happen, but its pretty infrequent......