In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Building a workshop

Discussion in 'The Wood Pile' started by Art C, Oct 21, 2014.

  1. Art C

    Art C

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    OK, so I'm planning on building a small workshop (12'x10') and plan on throwing a small wood-stove in for heat. My past experiences with camps, ice-houses and the like has been: punch a hole, staple some tin foil on both sides, stick the stove-pipe through add some asbestos and let-er rip. I'd like to have a cleaner (and safer) experience this time. What would you guys recommend for getting the stove pipe through the wall without burning the little shack down?

    As a side note, (Pallet Pete should be proud) the walls will be framed with pallets, then insulated and covered (both sides) with, as yet to be determined, wood siding and walls.
     
  2. redneckdan

    redneckdan

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    Look at the Class A instation options available. I went black single wall up to the ceiling, into a thimble& adapter collar, then Class A up through the roof with a roof thimble. Peel the shngles back, tar the hell out of it and re-lay the shingles.
     
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  3. Art C

    Art C

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    Thanks redneckdan,
    Wasn't quite sure what you meant by "class A", so checked out http://www.hartshearth.com
    and got some good info/insight. I think that's the way I'll go. I'll be going through a wall, not the roof, so won't have to worry about shingles
     
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  4. fox9988

    fox9988

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    Art,
    IMHO, you may want to reconsider going through the roof. Going through the wall requires a wall thimble, a Class A "T" and Class A pipe from the T to the top.$$$
    Small buildings/low roofs tend to have shorter chimneys and less draft. Going straight up through the roof will improve the draft and you won't have to use Class A until you get to the ceiling (or roof if it has no ceiling).

    What kind of stove do you have in mind?
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
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  5. redneckdan

    redneckdan

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    yeah, going straight up is much cheaper in the long run. Your draft will be better too. I only needed two sections of Class A to get 'er done. Total cost was about $350.
     
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  6. Shurdel

    Shurdel

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    I'm planning the same project. I had a shop with a metal roof, it's an old barn tht was resided. It's 1 1/2 stories. I was going to run it out the wall and up but saw how expensive the pipe was. After posting on here the other day, I think I'm going to plan to run it inside and through the roof. Where the stove is going to sit, there is not any ceiling.
     
  7. lukem

    lukem

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    Another vote for straight up. Makes cleaning easier too...better draft...cheaper. More chimney inside is always better.
     
  8. My IS heats my home

    My IS heats my home

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    Same here, as I said with Shurdel post, keep the pipe inside and then class A it when it goes out.
    The risk is still the same inside, just lessened somewhat. The long single wall pipe will want to be cooled faster
    by the open air inside the building and create a place for particulates to form inside the pipe.

    Inside is less expensive and you may get more of the heat to stay indoors with the single wall pipe run to the roof.
     
  9. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    Art, congrats on the workshop! BUT...please, two things.
    Through the roof with the vent, ok?
    More importantly, double the size of 12 X 10 to a 12 X 20. IMO, 120 sq ft is way too small for a workshop.
    I don't think you'd be able to use it for much more than storage at that size...there wouldn't be enough room to do things. You'd have to step outside just to change your mind!
     
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  10. bigbarf48

    bigbarf48

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    My shop my whole life has been a ~ 5' x 10' room off our carport. I'd like a 10x12 :rofl: :lol:
     
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  11. Highbeam

    Highbeam

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    There are building permit exemptions for small sheds, some places 120 SF and others go to 200 SF measured at the building and not the eave.

    In a 12x10 I would not install a woostove. I like woodstoves and all but it will become a sauna. Just run a Big buddy propane heater when you're out there.
     
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  12. nate

    nate Banned

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    I have a 24x26, 16x20, and the shop where I cut wood is around 60x80... one can barely fit a truck haha!

     
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  13. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    Bet you walk sideways a lot???
     
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  14. Art C

    Art C

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    Thanks youperdave,
    12X20 maybe a little too big for the space I want to occupy. 12X16 might work. You all may have convinced me on through the roof vs. through the wall. Will have to wait on what I end up with for a stove.

    Tne wife would like me to have a 20 X 60 to store my bike, tools, etc. Then her barn could be solely devoted to horse stuff. Ain't gonna happen. I've conceded, and allowed my woodcarving to move to the planned building, (the bike is staying put)
     
  15. ailanthus

    ailanthus

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    With clearances, it'll also occupy a high percentage of your square footage. A reddy heater or some other space heater would heat it up in no time.
     
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  16. fox9988

    fox9988

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    What kind of stove are you planning? I would build a little custom, about 1 cuft.
     
  17. Free BTUs

    Free BTUs

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    Good luck with the shop. 10x12 does sound a bit small depending on what you are doing. Before I built my shop I drew it out to scale on graph paper and then laid out my tools to scale and figured out how much room I needed for wood on each side of each tool. For example if you want to rip a 8' sheet of plywood on a table saw then you need 8' before the blade and 8' after the blade. 12' 2x4 could require close to the 12' on either side of the chop saw, etc etc. If you do go that small then do yourself a favor and put double doors on both ends. That way you can get stuff in / out for both sides and just open them both up when you need extra room. Don't know anyone that said "gee, I wish I had a smaller shop." Going from 10x12 to 10x16 really isn't going to add much cost or time to the build. Again, good luck with the build. Post pix and also posts some pix of what you make in the shop. :)
     
  18. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    Art, for sure the wood stove will take up more space than you think (I bet). You'll also find yourself piling a bit of wood inside for it.
    I don't know how much room you need for woodcarving, but if you have any machinery, freebtus is right on. Maybe this will help. It's a shop planner.

    https://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner
     
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  19. savemoney

    savemoney

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    10x12'. Do you have a room in your home that size? I say that because I want you to stand in a space that size. Now add a wood stove and the clearances needed. What do you have left go work in. Any storage space needed? Add another 4 ft and you might have a better chance. I tend to be a clutter person, then face an often overwhelming clean up project only go do it all over again.
     
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  20. Shawn Curry

    Shawn Curry

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    +1 on making it bigger - you'll outgrow it faster than you think.

    I have a basement workshop. Initially, the room it was in was roughly 10x12 - approx the same size of the "master" bedroom in my house. It was a little cramped, but I had my bigger machines aligned with the doorway, for extra working space. I officially outgrew it when I picked up a table saw. Wasn't even 6 months.

    Fortunately, I had plenty more basement to work with. Took me a couple months to get around to it, but I finally got everything rearranged down there. My storage went into the old workshop, and the west half of the basement became the new workshop - 20'x22'. Should suit my needs for a long time, but I can't even imagine anything smaller at this point.