We paid more for factory built (dove tail) this time around. Everywhere I lay the level its perfect but the seams between cabinets have spaces between them. In 1998 we did the rta's, and there was enough play to get them straight on the outside and inside...... I am not too concerned, I doubt most would not notice, but my husband is bothered, understandable since we spent alot more this time around. We had new drywall installed over some pretty bad walls, but also used a belt sander to level them, not terribly out of plumb. Any advice, tips or tricks appreciated!!!!!!
Hey Wildwest! I had a similar situation where the walls were not perfect and I installed all new cabs. I drilled a hole from one cab to the other on the face frame and then screwed them together. This closed the minor gaps.
Yep, you need to pull em away from the wall so all the faces are flush and on the same plane. Use a long straightedge along the faces. Shim the back at the wall, shim at the floor as needed to get level, and as Spock said, predrill the faceframes and run screws between. Use clamps so they don't move when you drill. Presuming these have faceframes of course. Some other presumptions are being made here too, but that'll get you started.
Papadave and Spock are right on. One suggestion would be depending on the door hardware type, is when you clamp the face frames together, drill and countersink the screw behind the hinge attachment point on the face frame to conceal the screws. Doing this keeps the inside of the face frame free from visible screw heads.
When pre-drilling the holes to pull the cabinets together you need to use two different drill bits. First, you need a longer 1/8" or so drill bit that matches the shank of your screw. (stop giggling everyone) If you hold the drill bit up against the screw, the bit should be the same size as the solid shank inside the screw threads. And it needs to be longer than most standard drill bits..... like buy a 6" one. You can cut it down to the needed length. It has to be the same length as the entire screw you are using with room to chuck it into the drill. The second drill bit you need is one that is the same diameter of the whole screw, threads included. I don't remember exactly but usually around 1/4". A normal sized drill bit works here as you only need to drill through one face frame. To find the right sized drill bit a trick is to eyeball the shank of the drill bit (the end that goes into the drill) against the screw. Don't try to eyeball the helical end of the drill bit against the screw.... just too much going on there. Why two bits? You want to pull the cabinets together, and if you let the screw threads "bite" both face frames you may not achieve this. So you only allow the threads to bite in the face frame that is away from the head of the screw, and then the head of the screw pulls the cabinets together. This is tricky because you could possibly drill through the face frame, so you have to be careful. Take the larger drill bit and put it against the frame of the cabinet. Mark the drill bit to depth with some tape so it will only go through the first face frame. Then take the smaller, longer drill bit and mark it for the length of your screw. You can cut it if it's too long to get into the cabinet. Just leave enough that it will drill to you desired depth while still being chucked into the drill. Having three drills here helps a lot. Clamp the two face frames together so that they are smooth, tight together, and equal top and bottom. If you can't get them together you need to adjust the cabinet using shims, levels, etc. Run the first, larger diameter drill bit through the first face frame, stopping when you hit the tape. Then run the second smaller diameter drill bit in the same hole, stopping again for depth. Go slow and eyeball the heck out of the drill position so that you are running straight and true. If the screw seems to strain, you can coat it with beeswax to help lubricate it. Hiding it under a hinge works.... if there is a hinge to be used. Sometimes, depending on your cabinets, the hinges are not in the right place. Also, don't use a lot of torque or you can break the head off the screw. An impact drill reduces this chance, but you still need to be careful you don't pull the screw in too far with it. Impacts are pretty powerful these days. It's so important to go slow and be careful because it so easy to stray off course with that drill bit. Even if you don't go through the face frame you can get too close to the finished outside that when you run the screw in it sorta' bumps up the finish. So do your best to get your head behind the drill so you can see the position of the drill bit in relation to the face frame. Sight it, if you will. Hope that helps. I've learned from an old-timer finish carpenter over the years, and have done a lot of kitchens. Josh
Those right there are some of the details that are important. How level is the floor ww? Is there a high or low spot along the cabinet wall? You can shim the low side and hide the gap with a toe kick scribed to the floor taper. Lots to know, unless the walls are flat, the floor is level, and the moon is in line with Mars or some such. Something is out of whack if there are gaps. Pics? You know we love pics.
Wow, I'm late to this question and answer. No need to say anything either, most of the guys nailed it. Cabinet hanging can be difficult to the average Joe if they haven't had much training. When I mean difficult; out of plumb walls, uneven floors, that kind of thing. When things like this come into play it takes experience in the craft to hang them right the first time.
All of the above! I thought of an idea but they are hung as of today, we need to put our belongings away and then onto other pressing projects If we hate the seams we will re-install another time
Thanks! Fantastic guide, I appreciate you taking the time to write it We (he) was able to a pretty good job considering.... We had most of the tools described, but lacking on man-power and experience. (new additions to the tool chest are cool adjustable drill bit adapters for variable lengths via allen wrench). I admire you have this skill down, it IS alot harder than it looks. Initially our contractor would have hung them with the same expertice you have, but the budget went faster than planned
You're welcome. On this forum I can't yet contribute much in the way of wood stove burning as I'm only starting my third winter. But when it comes to home improvement/remodeling/building I do know my way around tools. You're signature says you were in the high park fires. Did you know a family named DeHerrera? Josh
The name is not familiar. My home was in Lory State Park, though the fire burned hundreds of thousands of acres. I am afraid to ask, did their house make it? Thankfully ours did make it, but all the foreclosures from the fires then floods in 2013 brought our value down so far. I feel terrible for them! I just did a quick google. I don't readily recognize them but I was in B2B in fort Collins for 20 years and serviced atleast 2 of the companies that some of them worked at.
I was quite good at heating with a particular old stove, but I am in unknown territory with new technology so I can't advise either Also I am an expert on exotic tropical fish breeding. I'd love to share that info but nobody needs it I know how to contact you now, I will try not to fill you inbox here
I was wrong. They lost their house in the Black Forest Fire in 2013. So sad that there have been so many big fires that it's hard to keep track.
