Thanks Gasifier. Razo it's a simple mod that makes a difference. Those stoves are pretty bullet proof.
jetjr WeldrDave I'm really considering this baffle idea, I have the steel it would just be a matter of firing up the plasma cutter and setting her in place. It just rests in there right? you don't have it tacked to the tubes? Now my only concern is this diagram about my stove (Allnighter Mid Mo) and how it claims to have a crude secondary burn system and even a "third air" feature. By installing the baffle would I be messing all this up or causing the stove not to work as properly? Seems there is some sort of baffle in the door to direct the incoming air inlets into different parts of the stove. Should I just leave well enough alone in this case?
Razo that's correct it's just sitting on the tubes if it causes any problems it can be removed easily. I've never seen that diagram but WeldrDave may know something about it. In my opinion the heat still just went right out the pipe.
Razo, simple physics! divert the flow of hot gas, redirect the heat transfer and "poof" more burn time and more efficiency and redirection of heat to your stove. NOW according to that drawing your flue is on the back and your tubes are above it, Is this your case? Or is your flue on the top? This will make a difference and a change will need to be made.
Razo I just noticed what welderdave is saying. My tubes run at an angle in the stove. Now I'm curious to know how yours is.
The old Englander 24 also has two draft caps in the door, like the drawing above. Then they welded an angled baffle plate to the back wall to shoot the smoke to the front, to burn it again. Stove can be top- or rear-vented.
Ok! Can you get a piece of plate on the top of your tubes? Basicly if you can "stop" the direct flame from shooting out the flue and redirect it around a piece of plate, this will help a huge amount. My "guess" is if you got a piece say, 16" long and the width of your tubes, maybe an inch wider, slide it up from the center to oneside then lay it on the other tube…. you would be in the zone!!!
Yea I agree with weldrdave though I only used an 8" wide piece as mine has a large thimble inside and that left me with a little more than a 5"opening at the top.
jetjr WeldrDave Man I'm pretty excited about this, it makes so much sense, the flame would be going right out the thimble if no plate is in place. All I currently have it 3/8" and 1" plate, think I better go with the 1". I mean its so overkill but it will hold some nice heat
Just don't get your hand stuck like I did putting mine in. Wife thought I was kidding and took her good old time getting me a pry bar.
WeldrDave jetjr Alright so I made a template last night out of cardboard. 13" long by 7" wide. How does this look to you guys? Should I extend it out into the stove a little more? Like maybe try 10" instead of 7"? I'm nervous to close off too much of the flue. But looking at this, I don't know if I have enough covered. My tubes go up at a pretty steep angle so if I had a plate long enough it would extend right up to the top of the burn chamber and seal it, obviously I don't want that but I don't know how close I should get to that point.
I think 10" would be fine! And if you get a slight back draft you can always cut an inch at a time off. Your objective is to stop the flame, and heat out the flue and send the heat to the surface top of your stove. The gases will find their way with the residual heat going to the flue. My suggestion is try it, if you need to cut it back, you'll know fairly quick. Maybe go to 9" and "I" think your safe for sure
jetjr WeldrDave Thanks a lot for the insight guys! I think I'll whip up a piece of plate around 9" and see how she does.
Wow just realized we have the same stove jetjr didn't even take notice to that in your signature. Mine is the mid mo - don't know what size yours is or how that effects the positioning of the tubes but I should be able to use your measurements exactly since we have the same stove. Just realized that when I use a thicker plate (thicker than the cardboard template) I will probably hit the thimble like yours did and not be able to slide down under it like the cardboard. That may make an 8" width more viable. I better make a template out of an old 1x8 lumber scrap just to be sure. Was your length 13" if you recall?
Razo, do you have to use a 1" piece? Dam my friend, your not building a battleship. I understand thats all you may have, 3/8" is fine if you have it! even a 1/2" can't be "that" pricey if you went and bought it. Do you have a scrap place close? "I" would use the 3/8" piece you have…. I had a 1/4" in my grandma before and it lasted years