OK so when the Englander NC30 goes on sale this spring I am gonna grab one. I have the spot picked out for it. It will be a chimney straight up through the ceiling and roof. Any body got the clearance to combustibles handy? And what about the clearances below the stove? And if I use a steel plate how much does it reduce it? Also the through the ceiling connection, my roof is pretty close to the ceiling in that spot, not like 12"s close but maybe 3 feet or less from the finished ceiling will this cause any problems? Here is where the stove will go. Thoughts on how to constrict a hearth? Cement board over flooring to a certain thickness then my stone over it? And then how far up the walls do you have to go? To ceiling? The stove will be right where the ugly blue chair is facing out at a 45 degree angle from the corner.
Ok I got the manual. From rear corner it says 15" s the metal panel only gets me one more inch so its not worth it. But the floor needs to have an R rating of 1.5. It gives an example of 3/4" board and covering but I don't see any materials really listed. What is the r values of cement board that you lay tile over??? I was thinking one layer of cement board and some sort of stone type covering over top of that...whatever the wife approved. Would this be sufficient? Or would I need 2 layers of board depending upon the rock/slate /stone thickness of choice?
Depends on the board you use. I'll try to find the specs on it......... http://chimneysweeponline.com/horvalue.htm I see the "Next Gen" Durock is now on this list. You'd need four 1/2" layers to meet the CTC. What's the existing floor material?
You can reduce CTCs by using the side shields.....check the manual on that. If you use 2x wall stove pipe, wall clearances are reduced. Once I did that, the brick behind mine is much less warm. You'll need a ceiling support box framed to meet clearances (2" from pipe to framing on all sides), and an attic insulation shield as well. I believe mine is about 12" higher than the top of the top of the framing. Sounds like there's enough room in the attic w/o issue.
Oh yeah, the minimum flue height is 15', and is measured from the floor the stove sits on, not the top of the stove. It's in the manual. Do the flue stuff now unless you don't plan to install until next winter.
floor is hardwood. it looked like the metal shield only reduced ctc to 14 from15". And ceiling is 8 ft and attic is like 3 ft so I will be good with three foot of pipe over roof.
I've got mine in a corner kinda of like what your looking at. The side throws quite a bit of heat out. I'm at or just about the requirements. I usually throw a fan on my tile just because I get paranoid. When I can radar about 160 to 180 on the wall tiles. I've got a 1 inch spaced steel 2x4 & concrete tile in there. It's opened on the bottom and top for air insulation before the Sheetrock. The base is steel 2x4 with 2 layers of Durorock and 1 layer concrete, then tile on it. Which it stay nice, just the walls that I worry about. I'm thinking about getting the side shield to help with the radiant heat throw that you get from it. I can get pictures of my build if you want. But do get the minimal stack height. I'm at 16 foot and thinking about getting another 3 foot section. But would have to get some cable to stabilize the stack (again paranoid) from the winds that we get from time to time.
Id like to see pics. ...until I read the bottom part I was envisioning steel plate then 2 durorock then 2x4....not steel 2x4. How far are your clearencs to the side? If i went over 15/16 ft stack heigjt id have to have cabel as well due to the low heigjt in that area of my roof line.
You must be looking forward to the new stove! I believe you'll want to attach the durock to plywood before laying the tile. I used 1/2 inch plywood, applied thinset, and then laid down the durock. Some would also use cement board screws to attach the durock to the ply. With the first of the two hearths I've built in the last six months, I used the screws on the first but not the second. Did some research on tiling forums, and if you don't use the plywood, you have a good chance of getting cracks in the grout between the tiles eventually. This is assuming you're not using thinset to attach the durock to your floor, which I'm assuming, since it looks like very nice hardwood floors, you don't want to do. Haven't had any cracks in the grout so far, knock on wood - good thing I have so much of that hanging around!
Are y'all saying to built a portable in theory hearth? Like one that given enough people you could pick up and move if I say decided I did not want the stove there in a few years? Or saying to screw the steel 2x4 down to floor and then ply then durorock then tile/stone?
Years ago in Colorado the safety specs called for cement board with non combustible material on top. He used 2" x 6" to build platform frame, then cement board, then ceramic tile. I think the thinset or balsa/luan is is needed in homes that might be settling or older & shifting to prevent the tile grout from cracking. He screwed our platform into the subfloor for stability, not portable. He also built another frame on the backwall behind the stove for extra protection, protected it with cement board, and we tiled that too. Not SC codes but he researches well and always errs on the side of caution. I also bought a large platform for a woodstove at a local hardware store that went out of business to practice tapdancing at that time, it was absolutely portable, about 4' x 6', similar framing, finished hardwood over cement board and certified for woodstove base. Tile has since went out of style but I had confidence it was safe.
After looking at pictures it looks like it was the 1 layer of Durock and 1 layer of Concrete board, so I misspoke. But everything is screwed down to each other. After the Durock was set, I then thin set it for the tile. But in the first picture you will see basically where the stove will set. Those 2x4's are screw together for the weight of the stove. Remember this is only one way of achieving the end result, always error on safety. Good luck... Base: I did screw it down, did want them to move with all that weight on them. Heres a picture of the base and wall. The 2x4 steel studs have a 1" air space on the bottom to support air flow and that insulation value.
Just remember that every stove's ctc is different and the 30's is higher than pretty much any I've researched (EPA stoves) for floor protection. I don't remember what an air gap for the floor will give you for r-value (it should vary depending on what the gap is). That info should be out there somewhere. clemsonfor, I built mine with 2xs and used a few dabs of latex caulk between the bottom of those and the floor (could do the same with the steel studs). With all the durock, tile, and thinset, then the 400 some lbs. of the stove, I HIGHLY doubt it's going anywhere unless I drive the Jeep through the front door and hit it. I suppose you could consider it portable, but w/o a dolly or a couple NFL linemen, I wouldn't want to move it very far.
Yea I'm not going to move it I just was more referring to did you put screw through the 2x4s to the floor with that statement. I will probably build it and screw to the back walls. Maybe a few screws in the front? The floors warped after I installed them to at some point I will sand them back down to take the cup out of the boards. They have not moves since the first week so sanding will remedy the situation. Figured I would come here and ask so I can get in my mind what I need to do.
The portable in theory hearth is what I installed. I should have read Chvymn99 post's more closely before putting my two cents in, since you already had good advice from him. His install probably looks more gooder and maybe even more permanent. The main thing I wanted to convey was that if durock isn't secured to something more rigid like plywood, problems with the grout can develop. I learn a lot from the group all the time, thought I could finally maybe lend a little helpful advice, but understanding and communication can be difficult (at least for me). Think I'll go have a beer.
