One of my firewood trailers, Carry On brand 5.5x10, has a rotten board. I already have the board, a 2x10, the trailer bed is 10 ft long. Ever seen someone do it by bending and arcing the board over a couple of bricks or board chunks in the middle of the board while one end is stuck into the slot at one end, and then you barely get it started into the other end and knock out the bricks and it falls into place? I couldn't imagine how I could bend a 2x10 board enough to make that happen. I figured those guys doing that are on 14-16 ft trailers, thus the board is easier to bend into place. I came across this method below and my trailer design is very similar to this. I am thinking I could just cut out a piece of the holding metal strip similar to what he did (mine is not precisely as his is but very similar), in the very place that the board will drop into, then drill a couple holes through the board and the remaining metal angle iron left underneath and that should hold the board. I just need to figure out whether to do it on the front end or back end of the trailer. If anyone has a better idea, fire away, lol. Only other thing I could come up with is that not all of the board is rotten, could cut out the bad part of the board and drop a piece of a board in there and bolt it to the frame. No metal cutting required. I'd have to cut off those nails he's talking about, mine has the same thing. Of course, replacing all the boards would be ideal but I figure I can limp along another year or three, lol. FWIW, the trailer is ten years old. I have hauled a many a cord on it, it's been awesome because I have abused it with very heavy firewood loads.
It is captive on both end of the board now? If it is, they bent the boards at the factory installing them.
Yes I have done the bend the board thing. It helps to have a second set of hands and some hydraulic power.
Yes, welded strip across top of boards like his. But, again, my trailer is only 10 ft long. And I just want to replace one board, not all.
Most likely when they were building the trailer they just placed the boards then welded the angle iron to hold it in place. Very good idea cutting a notch to put the new boards in.
I doubt they did it that way. Usually all the metal work is done, then paint, then wiring, boards are last.
There's nothing wrong with splicing a board in, but it won't be as strong and won't last as long as one piece. Just another spot for water to infiltrate.
I think the video is the easiest way out. That’s what I would do. You can easily scab a small piece of wood underneath the trailer to bridge between the three boards just to keep the one from flopping up while driving.
Looking at the video. It looks like you could just cut the welds at the front of the trailer and pull that 1.5"x5.5' metal strip. Replace the board and then just bolt that strip back on. One bolt in every board or every other board. Several ways to skin this one.
I use 2x10x12 and 2x10x10 PT boards for the bases of some of my firewood stacks and the boards sometimes get a very pronounced curve to them when there are no splits piled on top. I just flip them over when the time comes to stack firewood on top and they flatten back out with no problem. Same with boards on cheaper bookcases that get a bow from the weight of the books. I just take the books off and flip the board over from time to time and the hump slowly goes away. Got me thinking that I have seen people 'shape' boards, similar to what they do when building wooden boats. You could try arcing the new board for the trailer by supporting the center of the board and then weighing down the ends so the droop down. It probably would take less time than you think to create an arch in the board (soaking the board would probably help). Then install it in the trailer and put a weight on the hump in the board to flatten it back out. No cutting, splicing, welding, etc.
Man some things can be made extremely difficult.................bend the board and be done, if for some reason you can not, cut it and put the splice over a crossmember with 4 fasteners. It is a trailer not the Space Shuttle....................
When I bought my last utility trailer I went to a local builder. Feels better spending with him. He uses higher capacity axles also. To replace the boards you only need to remove two 3/8 bolts that hold down the rear strip allowing access. He situates his axles slightly more rearward than most for good road manners. It tows like a dream loaded or unloaded. Price was equal to any of the box sellers and I have a real human to deal with if there were ever any problem. I did not do so but you can also custom spec if you don't mind waiting a couple weeks. On my last trailer that did not have a removable hold down I cut the rear section loose with an angle grinder then drilled it and bolted it like the one I have is now. Clean up sahrp edges to save tires.
