Hi Guys - Been a while since I've been in here, but I have a weird thing going on with my 572XP that I can't explain. My 572 was built by huskihl and its a GREAT freaking saw. I'm running a 32" bar for the big stuff, full chisel square filed chain. When I make my face cut, I run the horizontal cut first, using the bottom of the bar. Occasionally, the chain seems to grab hard and stall the saw out. No big deal. HOWEVER, when making the angled cut (conventional), as soon as the chain starts cutting, it grabs the wood and stalls the saw out. I have to back out of the cut completely, get the chain rolling and go back into the cut. It seems to grab worse when the saw is close to the tree and I'm trying to use the dogs. Its a major PITA. When I put the back cut in, if I use the top of the bar, I don't get ANY grab and the saw cuts like butter. I have NO idea whats up. The saw is cutting straight and the rakers are all filed for .025. I don't think I"m twisting the saw or anything stupid like that. I don't have ANY issues when I'm bucking rounds and just cutting straight vertical. Can anyone give me something to look for that might explain what's going on or what I'm doing wrong? I'm sure its not the saw, but something that I'm doing, but I don't know what. Thanks!! Joe
Does it do this if you make the cut not using the dogs? Sounds like the chain is just a pinch grabby? I’ve experienced something similar with out of the box Stihl RS. Aftermarket dogs can create a lot of extra force, are yours OE?
I’ve had aftermarket, over size bucking spikes (dogs) do exactly what you are describing. Something about the geometry and the force applied would cause the chain to stop and it would need to be pulled out and restarted in the cut.
Rakers to agressive? What species of trees are you cutting? A ported 572 has plenty of HP for what your doing, i would say your just dawging in to quick. As said above the big aftermarket dawgs put alot of leverage on things.
Is it just me that uses the top of the bar for the bottom of the face cut? Less chips in my face and I feel like the leverage is better. I still do the top cut with the bottom.
It just depends which side of the tree I decide to notch from. I prefer to use the top of the bar too, but I don't have any full-wrap handled saws, so sometimes I use the bottom of the bar. I seldom cut on flat terrain so slope and escape paths usually determine which side I notch from.
Sounds like you have depth gauges cut to low for your chain .025 may be to much for the top plate grind you are using that saw should have enough HP to push that combo well solution is simple try a new chain if the problem goes away it is that particular grind you are using for cross cut it may be fine but for the angle cut it may be to aggressive JB
Can't find it... a video from a saw slinger a while back who said to slightly dull the dogs to keep from binding. Not something I've tried but I have not been having the problem either. Has to do with Ronaldo's comment above.
Hi guys - Sorry for the late reply, got busy, and forgot about the post. Anyways, I'm going to be trying a new, out of the box chain today on some big oak today. 24" bar. We'll see how it goes.
Are you actually getting the chain sharp? A sharp chain will cut plenty good without the dogs. I don’t use the dogs on my saws much at all. Is it possible that your fuel filter is hanging up in the tank? Does it do better with a full tank?
