Runaway stove - crisis averted

The griddle gasket is another possible leaker. Discovered this the first year when the Encore was new. Found it by laying on the floor looking up through the closed door windows during a low hot burn. There were blue flame jets shooting into the firebox in a couple spots along the griddle plate edge. Then you know where to listen for whistling noises (tip - use a stethoscope, not your ear on a hot stove). The wire encased gasket for the griddle are known leakers in these 2550's. Also, your primary air shutter may not be closing all the way.

 

I have a Resolute Acclaim. it was old, but not used very much by my neighbor that didn't understand that burning wood was w-o-r-k.

First year I had it I had a similar problem, stratospheric temps and difficulty controlling the temps. I did some research and checked all the gaskets, and decided that I needed to take a look at that hidden combustor that hides behind the fireback on this downdraft stove. Sure enough it was very deteriorated. I put in a new combustor and now the stove is much more manageable.

That combustor package is also part of the airflow control in that stove.. if it's anything like mine. If it's falling apart, it's just like running the stove at a much more open setting on the draft. Now with a new combustor/refractory the stove is much more manageable.

I would ask how old is this stove, what is it's history and has that Refractory unit every been replaced?

 

I bought a new cat at the end of last year and started doing gaskets beginning of this year (griddle, door and ash pan). First couple shoulders burns were no issue and 4 splits of oak on a couple overnights have resulted in 5-600 degree griddle max. THE ONLY time I see this crazy issue is when I load it up with red maple and close it down right away. ON the other hand I have had no issues loading up the stove with elm, ash, oak or sas and the griddle temps stay constant 6-700 and cat never passes 1400. This one is really starting to bother me....

EDIT: On a hunch a split some of the maple causing the stove to run wild and what I found is this: Maple I split in Feb of this year is now reading 15% on fresh splits SO a slightly leaky stove + reloaded a little on the warm side (400ish) + super dry wood= super hot burns? I still need to do the leak test but I have a hunch its the door to door gasket. I will keep on eye on it but I think Im on to something here.

 

I might have responded to quickly. I had a seriously deteriorated Combustor Package.. not really a Cat. You've got a bit of both I think. Sounds like you're okay now though. I put a flue damper on to manage those real hot burning pieces I have, some birch, maple and even pine that are bone dry and more like big kindling than splits to burn slowly. With the big chimney I have in the center of the house I like the wee bit extra control. Even when I have this thing turned all the way down, the "EPA Secondary Air" pasage in the back of the stove is big enough to drive a truck through.

Sounds like you're doing pretty good. Kudo's on tearing that monster apart.

 

Yea my Combustor Package or refractory has seen better days for sure but not crumbling or anything like that. I too have a center mass chimney with a TON of draft and when I have the air wide open it sounds like a jet engine. 1/2013 was my first month with this used stove and it was in poor condition when I started using it (dead cat, all gaskets, burnt out secondary probe, no block off plate to the empty flue opening, and bad fuel) Over time it has gotten better but I need to figure out whats going on.

Question: could a misadjusted secondary cause the stove to lose control like this?( I replaced the probe beginning of this season) Maybe its that and not a faulty gasket seal?

 

This advice I agree with 100%. An open door will pull that heat up the chimney just like a fireplace. I have a wad of foil behind my stove to shove into the rear air intake. Have had less success with this method, but just leaving the door wide open will keep the temps from being trapped largely. All stoves send heat up the flue obviously but I think opening the door pushes more air up the flue or at least doesn't hold onto it.

 

I've done this before. Rushing logs out the front door doesn't usually turn out too well. Logs need to stay in the stove whenever possible.

 

I agree and admit I panicked a bit but it is a lesson learned, stupid me I have the fireplace screen sitting right next to it too I am going to take off the shield for the secondary next cool down so I can get a good look at it I suspect it isn't functioning correctly (just a guess)

 

At least the fire didn't get doused in water. That would have been fun.

 

Or a fire extinguisher

 

True...I have one next to my stove just in case. That would be interesting on how it would affect your stove the next time you wanted to burn.

 

I have a feeling after much cleaning I would probably need to replace the cat......... water on the other hand, that would probably destroy the whole stove.

 

Glass / fake glass window would be gone with water. Casting would be cracked

 

K I think I fixed the problem. Redid left door gasket ( I kinda knew I need to after I did it a month ago but I thought I could get by ) and adjusted the secondary air probe and now its sitting at 1400 cruising with soft slow flames and nice secondary's not like before ( fast moving soft flames and back puffing secondary's). I need to run one more burn to be sure but I think I fixed it.