Want square chain with a round grinder?

Thank you Eric you have answered a lot of questions for me Thant I really didn’t know I believe that is why I was set with round chains. After your answers I am going to go ahead and order some square chains and give them a whirl.
I am pretty sure Bailey’s sell the square grinder
It is a Simpson I do believe and yes I now it’s exspensive

 

I’m a huge believer in using machines for consistency, but I do think (for me) it’s probably going to be helpful having learned the filing technique first. At least now I know what the geometry is supposed to look like.

 

That looks amazing very very nice

 

When the wood sees this, it's just gonna fall apart

Y'all are gonna make me file chains tomorrow.

 

LOL nice… there’s no such thing as having too many sharp chains on hand.

 

Looks fast.

 

That is the single most difficult part . Setting up the dressers. I revamped a Silvey 510 20 some years ago. Brought the wheel into the tooth horizontally. Rotated the chain holder for left/right sides . It did a good job . The trick was free hand dressing the stone/wheel . I would have gotten standard chisel grinding dressers figured out and mounted. But I gave that grinder to a friend .

 

I've chisel filed and ground hundreds of pre round chisel chains. Whole 100' rolls if that was what was on sale when I ordered chain .
The benifit I like about pre round converted to chisel ground or filed. The gullets don't need hogged out as soon . Can go 3 more grinding without having to do gullets than a pre chisel chain . Otherwise EVERYTHING is the same.

 

It seems to work decently. The instructions that came with the jig leave much to be desired but watching his YouTube video on proper settings helped. I don’t know why but I had to dress a steeper angle on my wheel to correct for back lean on the side plate. I’m getting acceptable results though.

 

Looks great to me. After about one 28-36” full comp session, I lightly redress my wheel to keep the corner true. Do you have to freehand to do that? Any plans to make a jig to help?

 

To start with I dressed the angle of the wheel by tipping the wheel, and running a diamond file back and forth underneath it, sandwiched between it and the flat surface of the jig. Like this:

Dress the first side of the wheel, remove it, flip the wheel 180 degrees and repeat. Once the proper angles are established, when I needed to redress I just freehanded the angle the best I could, following what was there. I may end up making an angle gauge in the future to check it. What I really want to do is start using a CBN coated wheel so I can eliminate dressing altogether. Unfortunately they’re on back order right now (through square jig) I may look into turning my own wheel from aluminum and sending it out for CBN coating, if it’s cost effective.

 

As I've learned cutting in that wood yard...gritty wood. I was rotating three then four chains as I pulled a new one out of the box. And I stopped using the 25" bar. Quicker to sharpen a 20"

 

Did you look to see if diamond wheel in southern mn makes a square one?

 

Looking at their site it’s hard to determine what shapes their wheels come in. I could contact them for clarification though. What I’m looking for is a double bevel wheel. Prices seem reasonable.

 

Are you still using full chisel on that dirty wood? I have a few semi chisel I’ve hung on to for working with the nastier logs

 

I hate semi chisel. Cuts too slow IME

 

I’d call them and I bet they have one or can get it

 

When filing 0.375 semi chisel chain I use a 3/16" round file rather than a 7/32". It'll give the tooth more of a hook and make it cut a little faster. But yeah, semi chisel is definitely slower.

 

On our grinder, we use 50° for semi-chisel. That .325 X-cut chain is pretty fast.

 

Baltic abrasive will make any wheel with any dimensions you like.