What bar and ripping chain do I need for a G660 for milling?

Bonus points for Amazon links. Struggling to find the right incantations to put into the search.

 

THE DUKE'S PROFESSIONAL HARD CHROME 3-PACK FULL-CHISEL CHAINSAW CHAIN

 

THE DUKE'S BAR AND FULL CHISEL HARD CHROME CHAIN COMBO

 

Have you used this brand? I haven't bought any bars or chains in a while, but that seems like a really good price.

 

I recently ordered a 3 pack of 3/8lp chain from them. So far I like it. The rakers were a bit high for my liking but that was easily remedied. I'll be buying more.

 

You can start with a regular chain and slowly change the angle to 5-10 degrees on the top plate.
Regular chain will make a less smooth surface on your slabs but does work. Make sure you have at least 4” longer bar than your Alaskan mill is if it clamps on both ends so your not pinching the sprocket nose. If you have the Alaskan mini mill that clamps on powerhead end only the extra length isn’t needed. 0-10 degrees gives best finish and will very in cut speed depending on wood species and knots. 10 is the standard but all the way down to zero degrees works and the old Stihl dealers owner used to do 2 at 5-10 then 2 at 0 he said for better finish. Wore his 084 out then rebuilt it with all new oem parts before they were unavailable.

 

Perrrrrrfect. thanks!

 

You are welcome. If you scroll through the selections of chains they offer dedicated milliing chain in 3/8. Either loops or rolls to make your own loops.

 

Run lots of oil in that saw and tune it so that it barely cleans up in the wood or it won’t last

 

What do you mean by "barely cleans up in the wood?"

 

Run it rich and gurgley and take a little fuel out until it just smoothes out under load. Don't overdo it and get it on the lean side. CSM is rough on equipment.

I rum a 10 degree ripping chain myself , JB sawman hooked me up with what I needed.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8J8TUUWjZT7enhR89

Hear how my saw is blubbering on the down cuts but cleans up when I'm pulling up? It just cleans up enough with the extra strain on it pulling up. I would aim for something similar.

As to the more oil advice. like 25:1 more oil. Something of quality like Amsoil Dominator, Amsoil Saber, Honda HP2, Echo Red Armor, Motul 800, Motul 710, belray H1R...

 

Looks like they got you taken care of.
Basically, as soon as you release some forward pressure it should burble/4 stroke

 

You had also asked about a bar , Keep in mind that you will need a bar longer than the width of the log. You loose maybe a couple inches at the front of the saw and also a few inches at the bar end because of the way the saw mounts on the mill. If your saw has bucking spikes, you can take them off to gain a little back. Adjustable oiler ? , set to "max"!

 

Ive yet to see CSMing in person. Maybe that big ash log you mentioned is an ideal candidate?

 

What if the saw is mtronic?

 

I would guess run it heavy on oil since you can't control the fuel get extra oil in it through the mix.

 

Too short to make it worthwhile. There are some black walnut there that are too large for my mill so we had talked about getting them down to a size that the mill can handle a little easier and make boards from there. And other BIG stuff there as well.

 

Isn't a G660 a Chinese copy of a stihl? I'm guessing it has an adjustable carb. I haven't seen a counterfeit saw with autotune or Mtronic yet. I'm not sure if the MS660 was Mtronic or not.

 

Yes if it is a clone there is no way that thing is controlled by a chip like M-tronic or Husky auto-tune for that price. Either way heavy on the oil , 25:1 with a good oil of your favorite color. But that's just me.