Thermal mass

Oh I dunno, I think everyone here understood what I was saying, in relation to this particular model tube stove, which is an easy breather BTW!

 

Buy a Fields...there are cheaper out there, but they are crap...the ones Menards has are a joke!
Supply House has a fair price on them...and next day shipping for us in NEO!
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal

 

Just counted 15 pieces on reload mix of big and small. This is with 3 or so" of coal/ash on bottom
If the baro dampers work well, I might have to try one myself.

 

I ordered one. I've seen other reviews of the cheaper ones that screamed "RUN AWAY"... It ended up less expensive than in the add. Also it should be here Friday, not that I'll get it put in anytime soon... But it will be towards the top of the priority list.

 

I’ve read that baro dampers cool the chimney too much and can cause creosote? I think I would try a regular pipe damper first. Also look into blocking the unregulated boost air.

 

There's a lot of BS out there regarding baro dampers...if you are burning wet wood, especially too slow/cool, then it certainly won't help with creosote. But if you have dry wood, proper burning habits, and an insulated chimney, you'll likely have no issues.
People don't understand baros...the baro only cools the chimney temp to a point...a regulated point. Draft is caused by a column of warmer air (flue) rising into cooler air (atmosphere) and all the baro does is control the temp of the flue...if it opens and the temp drops, the draft drops and the baro closes, which makes the temp go back up a lil bit...this all happens instantly, and constantly. Barometric dampers are a super simple device...just an adjustable weight on the pivoting damper door...move the weight out and the door opens easier, lowering the temp/draft...move the weight in and the temp/draft runs higher.
If your chimney is getting crudded up using one, you either need dryer wood, better burning habits (or a cleaner burning appliance) or raise the draft (temp) setting of the baro.
That said, I probably wouldn't run one on an old school stove, or an uninsulated chimney (usually run cooler/dirtier)

 

MAF143
So I've been happy with my smoke dragon conversion.
But your responses to this thread and how yours doesn't run away on you got me thinking.
So I uncovered 2 of the secondary tube holes.
This allows somewhere around 10 to 20% of the unmetered secondary system air in.
Is nice to see secondaries again.
It's very windy here today.
But even with just this little amount of secondary air in at full air shut off and flue dampner 90% closed. To stay at flue temps I'm comfortable with.
This is with welded in block off pieces over the flue from the inside of the stove.
Might run it like this for a while.
If it runs to hot, I'll get the welder back out and repatch one of the 2 holes I unblocked

 

I picked up the rest of the stuff I need to install the baro damper this evening. When the baro gets here I'll wait till a little warmer day to clean out the stove and replace the pipe from the stove to the wall thimble with the baro in it. Possibly Sunday per the forecast.

 

The barometric damper should get here later today. I may be able to install it Sunday, but not sure yet. I think I have all the other parts on hand to replace the whole pipe from stove to wall.

I just wanted to establish a "before" baseline.
24* outside with mild wind and sunny
Stove is loaded with a mix of Honey Locust, Sugar Maple and Red Maple, I was able to get 9 22" splits in for this run as these are a little smaller than I normally run.
air input to stove is fully shut down.
manual damper on stovepipe fully closed
flue temp is steady at 600* per the magnetic temp. My handheld IR gun says 530*. Flue temp at elbow going out the wall is 275*. Most of the heat is being kept in the house.
The primary air through the stove is not enough to keep the door glass "washed" as it is mostly sooted over at this point.

 

short video of the burn. door is sooting up, secondaries are cranking, and it's throwing out some serious heat for the furnace fan to capture and distribute throughout the house.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Or860W80t8Y?

 

I'm surprised your sooting glass with those temps.
One other thing I did to this stove that I forgot until seeing his post was removed the #1(I think) secondary tube and cut some slits in it angling back towards firebox, to try to force that secondary flow down towards the glass. The #1 tube on mine was solid with no holes from factory

 

It's here!!! Now I have to get to it...
Seems built well and doesn't stick open or closed. Rubbing or getting stuck in one position is the main NO-NO... Nice free swinging action is what we want.

 

Mount it level and a Fields baro will do its job flawlessly.

 

Excited to see results

 

How does looking from outside show the results?

 

I guess hear results would be better

 

I was just trying to joke around with your spelling mistake. Was the best i could think of.

 

Well I'm so dumb I didn't even get the exited vs excited until now

 

Had some time this morning and afternoon before going to a couple parties this evening, so I was able to get the barometric damper installed.
Homemade manometer permanently mounted so I can monitor the draft.


This is after the baro was installed, this was still too much draft for this stove and I turned it down to where it measured about .04" of water column.


Testing the manometer and also the easy way to get the air bubbles out of the tubing.
https://youtube.com/shorts/LMi6jrf4uEg

 

I had to adjust the weight on the baro a couple of times to get the draft down to where closing down the stove controls would maintain a full load burn rate at 400* flue temp. The manometer is hard to read at such small levels but the calipers make it possible.

next video is nice burn at constant 400* flue temp, only the stove controls closed with the manual damper fully opened. I'm thinking this has gotten me in a sweeter spot for getting longer burn times at lower temperatures, but I'll need to play with it for a few days when it gets cold again to get it all tweaked in and see what kind of extended burn times I can get.

I can't say for certain yet that this has worked as planned, but it is looking positive so far.

https://youtube.com/shorts/MLqtmeK53tk

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