This design is more people-centric and layouts today strike me as more vehicle-centric. I recall the Colorado housing developments where 3/4 of what you see from the curb is garage door. As herd size grew I’m sure there was also a desire to move the activity away from the house. A real downside is fire. When I grew up the barn was no longer attached because the building piece attached to it caught fire. Luckily a neighbor worked for the town road crew and he took a plow truck right through the section that was on fire, saving both the house and barn (I have a newspaper clipping somewhere).
I was just gonna say, I bet the insurance companies would never allow it now...or if they did it would cost a lot more for some serious firewalls...
Took Friday off. Here’s the “before” picture. We had shingled the bottom half in the Fall of 2012, but ran out of time and finished the following Spring. The line was always visible since then. I started the day from the ladder so she could finish some trim and remove plastic from the windows. We continued on through all day Saturday. The sunlight leaves the valley, lingering just a little longer on our hillside. Foliage is nice, tourists were passing by all weekend. Today we aimed to get two coats of stain on. Didn’t quite get there. Rain tomorrow and then a few nice, cooler days. Maybe now we’ll have a vertical stain difference to see the next dozen years.
I’m not loving the brown tint, but the sunlight is doing in the shingles with the clear stain. The driveway side faces SE and is the worst, followed of course by the front. Almost no loss on the NW side. I should mic a few on the driveway side and see how much is gone.
Can I ask a question here? Planning on remodeling/moving into an early 1900's lumber store building next fall. One of the bedrooms is from the orig place, the exposed wood is very very dark. No smell, and it's always been dry according to the family, okay to finish it with drywall and move in? Are there precautions that need to be taken?
That would be great in a different situation, this will be teenyboppers bedroom on an exterior corner. It's is a 1918 (?) lumber store (and mill), her bedroom will be in what was a tools room, literally wood rough sawed siding with studs, and 2 x 4" cuts mounted angled up/outwards to hold tools for sale like axes, hay picks and shovels etc. Lol. Thoughts were, once remodel starts, to run electric (and plumbing, she's getting her own bathroom in there), then insulate and drywall. Would you or anyone know if I need to seal this 1918 wood first, like now banned pesticides or sealant?
If it’s raw wood and not painted (thinking lead) I would think what ever pesticides from 100+ years ago, are no longer a serious health concern.
The new threshold sits lower, so either a new door or I stretch it. Given how the dog likes to jump on it, I opted to alter this one for now. Used my homemade track saw to square the bottom of the door, and then attached a filler strip. This is not fine woodworking - I went right over the end of the stiles, but I didn’t glue onto them. It will get sanded and painted.
Gluing the insulweb on, getting ready to do dense-pack cellulose in the shop. Haven’t done this before but read about it and am giving it a try. Rough-sawn 2x4 at 24” wall studs, so I added 2x2” horizontal strapping at 16” to make a full 6” depth and very few points of direct conduction (framing) through the wall. It’s called a Mooney wall, after a guy who popularized it years ago.
The mill finally called and said my shop siding was ready. This is White Pine, S1S2E (planed on one side, and parallel edges, rough-sawn on the side I’ll have facing outward). Pretty happy to be starting this before cold weather really sets in. Board and batten (battens are the pack on top of the load). Also got some 16’ 2x8 while I was there. A borrowed trailer - usually would borrow a 24’ deck-over, but had to make do with 8x8 bunks under. Once I got home I removed the top two, and the planks, and then lifted each end to put more cribbing underneath so I could get the forks in over the fenders. Strapping the load on was a challenge due to the fenders (no attachment points there) combined with the short 10’ length of the boards.
I re-sided this barn several years ago using vertical shiplap pine. Any water that made it through joints can dry to the inside. On the shop I’ll have insulated walls, so drying to the inside would be slow at very best. The original siding was T1-11, stained with used motor oil 25+ years ago (before we arrived). I’ve wrapped in Tyvek and am using strips of T1-11 to make a semi-chance of moisture drainage down the Tyvek. It isn’t perfect, but I hope it lasts for as long as I need it. I really wanted to have vertical board siding to go with the barns, and am hoping this turns out ok.
I DO!! Prospect and Riverside and later the gallery on S College! Of all things, my Manager at Ft Collins Army Store's BIL was the manager of the Prospect location. Thank you for some good memories
The cookstove was here when we bought the place. My grandparents had the same model, so I didn’t want to part with it, but we needed to move it to have a real heater there. All that woodwork over the brickwork was not original. It was getting too hot from the Tempwood stove we put there, so I tore it all out, 20+ years ago. I’ve started cleaning it up a bit (fresh pine on the left). But the brickwork is rough and likely was originally covered with wood. I am envious of old work such as the picture below, which I stole, but also am quite concerned about the heat my stove throws.
I’m thinking of using Hardi Board there, over the brick, assuming it would be non-flammable. I’d probably have to suspend it from above (not planning to drill anchors into the brick). Does that sound like a reasonable choice of material?
They make mantels etc that are concrete, look like wood...very convincing!! Lemme see if I can find a link... Here, MagraHearth | Non-Combustible Fireplace Mantels
