This has been going on for a while and I finally started to pay attention to it. For 90% of my saw cutting I use my M18 saw. It's a good saw and does well for me. But there is one issue I have started to take note of. Very often while limbing it will get hung up and kinda stuck. This is not the typical kerf closing in but something else. This seems to be happening where there is neutral tension in a branch. The best way I can describe the problem is that the chain doesn't cut a wide enough kerf to leave space for the bar. It's getting hung up on cuts a LOT. This happens even with fresh chains. I'm running an aftermarket oregon S52 3/8 LP .050 gauge chain on a 14" oregon bar that also matches spec; 3/8 LP .050 gauge.
I have a 395 with 36" bar that was doing something similar. Brand new bar and chain, when i bought the powerhead, cut great though the first stump. Then it started to get bound up like what you're talking about. Plus it would NOT cut straight. I sharpened the chain several times and the problem still persisted. Was going to just buy a new bar but figured id get a loop of stihl rs chain for it first. Voilà that fixed it. Still using that same bar today with multiple loops of stihl chain.
I bet you had a couple links hung up and bent. What I'm having is through multiple chains so it can't be a chain or sharpening issue.
Different brand of chain each time? It's not like your bar got thicker. I was thinking the offset of the cutters wasn't wide enough for bar clearance, at least that's how mine felt until i tried a different brand chain. Is the bar cutting straight or curving to one side. Is it more of a problem with full bar length cuts? Do you notice it if you cut 2" or smaller stuff? What if you cut with just the tip of the bar?
I have like 5 bars for the saw they're all the same. I suspect I need to get a different brand of chain that has the cutters stick out further on each side. How would I figure that out?
Just to be clear...it's not a safety shutdown that is happening? My battery saw likes to cut out quite a bit for 'thermal protection'. Would like it a lot more if that never happened.
Ran the saw for a couple hours today. Same crap. It just feels like I need a chain with wider cutters. It's functional, just the amount of times I get it hung up on stuff is incredibly annoying because I use it only for limbing and other small cuts. It's a bit of a safety risk because I find myself angry and pushing through things which is obviously a bad idea. Just to recap, this is only occurring on small (under 3") cuts. I can cut wedges and fell and buck all day long and my only problem is battery life. This never happens on my gas saw.
Totally plausible for the chain to not be cutting a wide enough path. You could check into getting a narrow kerf (NK) bar and keep the LP chain you're using, assuming the pitch and gauge are the same. Looks like the OE bar is in fact the NK. Check out your Oregon and see if it states narrow kerf. 16" Chainsaw Guide Bar The MILWAUKEE® 16" Chainsaw Guide Bar is to be used with the Milwaukee M18 FUEL™ 16" Chainsaw (2727-20) and 16" Chinsaw Chain (49-16-2715). The bar length is 16", the pitch is 3/8" Low Profile, and the gauge is .043". The Narrow Kerf Design delivers maximum efficiency for longer run-time. The saw chain guide bar has a durable design and is weather-resistant for increased life.
I have one of these Milwaukee m18 saws, and like it quite well. Mine is a top handle and I love it in the bucket truck. ‘Cept last weekend it did a 30’ swan dive and landed on concrete. It still works fine just needed a little super glue. I have noticed it bind up in the cut a few times but wrote it off as poor operator technique.
So sadly they don't make a narrow kerf bar in the size chains I have. So I guess I'm gonna have to run down all my chains and bars and then toss what's left and find a new bar/chain combo.
The OE M18 bars are traaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaash. The chains are completely fine but the bars. good lord. The tip sprocket area spreads open. every time.
