Well, the boots are for sure different...and going just from memory, it looks like the coils are a little different too...your hold down tab is at, lets say 11:30...mine is more like 2:00...I think.
Yup, just looked it up...2V engines use the curved boots and coil mount position like mine (they refer to it as a DG508) and the 3V engines use DG511 coil with straight boot and mounting tab like yours...oh well, its still a stand up offer! Only on FHC!
Anytime I’m just curious to see what you find. I was flipping through online and saw some pictures of the cracked intake and bad gasket around the front coolant pipe. Sounds like what you’ve got going maybe?
Not sure when I will get back to it...spare time is at a premium right now...and I don't drive the truck that much, so not a high priority...but I will let y'all know what I find once I sneak up on it
Just looked at the recommended tire pressure on the 04 f250 diesel- 55psi front and 77psi rear that is for 265 70r17LT oem size- this one has 285LT on it at present ( came that way). I been through the Firestone tire fiasco some years back as well on the trucks.
If I ever get to cleaning up the garage, I may have the old ones out of my 2V van or pickup around. If I find them I will try to let you know. Happy to send them your way.
Thanks, appreciate the offer, but I bought new ones then, still haven't put them on though...don't drive the truck much. I did suck the coolant out of the #6 spark plug well though...that helped a lot, still has an occasional miss...probably a bad boot if I had to guess. Still need to track the leak down too...probably the intake manifold, I'm pretty sure it is aftermarket. I vaguely remember the PO talking about when the engine was swapped out for the Jasper reman that's in it now...I think he said the intake was replaced too...
Holy thread revival Batman! Just recently fixed the passenger side exhaust manifold leak that I had going on...turned out that it was just the rear cylinder gasket was blown...studs were intact, but the rear cylinder studs were a little rusty right at the head, so since I had already purchased a set of stainless studs and nuts, my plan was to replace them all...key word, was. I broke one of the front studs when I zipped the rusty nut off with the air gun thinking that it would come loose without any fire-wrench treatment first (dumb ) Well I quickly found out that these studs were not going to volunteer to come out, at all! Spent about 5 hours screwing around getting the broken one, and one of the rear ones out, then the second stud (bottom) on the rear cylinder really fought me!! I got online and did a bunch of research on all the tricks for getting these things out, but nothing really worked...ended up just continuing to weld nuts on the stud until they finally gave up, that bottom rear one had me frustrated almost to my limit! I dunno if it helped or not, but I did drill an 1/8" hole down through it before it finally let loose...might have helped get the heat down in further? If it had not let loose I was about ready to order a set of those locating plates they make for drilling out the old studs. After all that I decided that since the rest of the studs were in fine condition, that they were going to have to stay...3 days replacing 1 manifold gasket is enough! (July 4, 5, 6!) So I slathered them all in nickel based antiseize and reinstalled the Ford manifold that I had resurfaced flat (wasn't too bad) using new stainless nuts. Reading up on some of the truck forums about doing this, I saw where some people talked about coming back to retorque the manifold after a few drive cycles, I figured it can't hurt, so I checked it last night, and it was definitely a lil loose, especially on that rear cylinder! I bet most of them never get a retorque, and the ones that just blow a gasket (manifold not cracked, studs not rusted off) would have been fine if they had. I think I might check it again in a few weeks. Sure nice not having that tick tick tick noise all the time now! That is all, just wanted to mention the retorque thing...hows yours holding up J. Dirt ?
Dave, my 03 Tundra could use new manifolds (or better yet, headers). Since your practiced… What a chittty thing to deal with. Hopefully you won’t have to touch another one in your lifetime. I retorqed the header on the Jeep after a few heat cycles and was glad I did. They too got a little funky in a short time. Ignored I guarantee they’d have leaked.
I just bought a 2001 F-150 supercab with a 5.4 two valve. My son said the fella wanted $200 for it, had some rust but otherwise just a miss, interior was decent. It came with decent tires & 4 more that were about 40%. He apparently overlooked the silver dollar sized holes in the exhaust manifolds. He said he would just fix the miss & not worry about the exhaust leak but listening to exhaust leaks literally almost drives me insane. I pondered tackling it myself but knew I didn’t really have time & with my temperament I wouldn’t fair well with it so I sent it to town. 2 exhaust manifolds, 8 new plugs, 4 coils, a new air box clamp, an a/c evac & charge, service & an oxygen sensor. Every stud on the passenger side had the have a nut welded on them & the exhaust manifold was torched off. All the studs on the drivers side came out. Anyhow I am in my $200 pickup about $2800 now. I am ok with it, runs like a top now, all the controls & such work. I don’t need a shiny pickup to beat up & down gravel/dirt roads or run to town in.
