Remington Mighty Mite saws

Exactly. I have no plans of doing so.

 

Then there is this rare model. I've only seen one come up on eBay and it was expensive.

 

There were three versions of these saws. By versions, I mean generations. The tag on the rear handle indicates this. This is an example of the last version...

before they turned them into ugly, plastic case saws in 1977.

 

A couple other models I found poking around.

 

Can you install this option on BRAD's 241?
Never saw that option before.

 

Now lets get into these generations. MMB I was the first gen saw. All generations were 34cc. But there are significant differences between the first gen and gen 2 and 3.

1st gen saws were approximately 1/2" shorter in front of the crankshaft centerline. Notice in front of the pull start housing...


First gen on bottom, 2nd or 3rd gen on top.

The reason is the first gen saws had the fuel tank integrated into the saw body. It was essentially sharing the same metal divider wall as the crankcase. This caused problems so they updated them to have an internal plastic tank which necessitated a longer saw body. The caps changes too.

 

Old style caps.

"New" style.
The gas tank became a thread on vs thread in. The oil tank remained thread in but changed to match the gas cap.

 

Now, I've had one running first gen saw. It was a rare, metallic green, automatic saw. It ran great for 5-10 minutes, depending on the outside temp, as it would start to heat up the fuel, causing pressure in the tank to overcome the metering needle in the carb. The saw would get rich, id lean it out some and it would do it again. This little dance went on for a minute or two after it started acting up, until it would die. It was a scary saw. The fuel would literally boil in the tank. I had a video of it at one time. Boil like a pot of water. I tried again in the middle of winter and it made it about 10 minutes before doing it again. I stripped the good parts off it and burnt up the magnesium parts in camp fires. Speaking of magnesium, the first gen saws had magnesium pull start housings and oil pumps. There were also less cooling holes in the first gen pull start housings.

1st gen pump and pull start housing.




2nd and 3rd gen pump and housing. Both plastic. They actually perform better. The starters don't seem to get sticky and the pumps alway pump. I had issues with the magnesium style as I've mixed and matched parts between gens.


Notice the added vents.

 

I'll address the oil pumps now to get that out the way. The plastic version draws oil in the bottom through that one way rubber duck valve in red...

It exits out the green hole that interfaces this spot on the saw body indicated in white. There is a cork gasket in between them when assembled.

That plastic rod, red arrow, pushes on this aluminum piston in the pump housing. It is actuated by the throttle trigger shown in the middle picture. All versions of these saws have this style of bar oiler system plus an override mounted on the left side that is thumb actuated. Shown in the last picture.




One last oiler tidbit. The Automatic / Automatic oiler saws, same setup, different badging, added an additional piece to the puzzle. They had a one way valve in the oil tank that went to the crankcase. It pressurized the tank with crankcase pressure, thus "automatic oiler" it was placed in this boss, yellow arrow, after they drilled and tapped it at the factory.


Almost forgot...

The first gen oil pumps had a hose with filter to draw in oil and a check ball to control back flow. The plastic unit had a flat felt filter the duck bill rested against.

 

Brad have a picture of a 241 in his wallet or sumpin? I bet he makes saw noises when he looks at it wishing he could have one too.

 

I'm back for more useless RMM information lol.

Ignition systems. Gen one saws had a different coil and points set-up. The gen one coil was "square" and the points used an external condenser. There was a cast in spot in the body fir the condenser to rest.


Below is the gen 2 and 3 coil. It is round and has the condenser integrated into the coil marked in red. The casting was changed, eliminating the condenser nesting spot.

 

They flywheels were different and not interchangeable. Gen one flywheels also has a removable / replaceable starter cup that the pawls grab when pulling over. It was held on with the flywheel nut.


Gen 2 &3 saw a flywheel with integrated starter cub, seen below.

 

Bars and chains. Gen one and two saws were 1/4 pitch and gen three were 3/8 lp. Something odd was some of the non deluxe saws didn't have chain adjusters and the bars didn't have a hole for one despite the saw body having the provisions cast in to add the adjuster. I had a couple that came without adjusters and the one hole bars.


The bottom bar is from a saw without the adjuster.

 

Air filters and carburetors... Gen one saws had a different air filter set up, including the cover attachment and some other pieces. They also had a 2 needle carburetor.

Below is the gen one style set up. The filter covers the entire carb box and because of this, all linkages and adjustment screws are sealed with rubber pieces / bellows. The filter is felt.


They use a metal choke rod and choke parts that also serve for the filter cover mounting.

 

Gen 2 and 3 saws used this set up. I prefer the gen one set up and have converted my best used saw to gen 1.

Below is the gen 2-3 set-up.

They use a little 2" square filter mount and a plastic guillotine style choke.


Single needle carburetors and no carb box bellows and seals needed. The filter is metal screen with some flocking.

 

Pistons and crankshafts.

Gen one saws had 2 ring pistons, gen 2-3, a single ring piston. The two ring pistons have a ring location pin the singles had a floating ring without a pin.


Im not sure when this changed but there are two different styles thrust bearings on the crankshafts.

 

Thank you for sharing this information. I now know way more about Remington Mighty Mite saws than I did or probably need to. I love any and all old mechanical stuff. Whatever you did to your thumb most have hurt.

 

Thank you. I'm very mechanical as well. There is more to come with the Remington saws. I've had to focus on other things for a bit.

I smashed that thumb in a door trying to stop the wind from slamming it shut. Its over two months old and still no pink exiting the nail bed. I think its going to fall off.

 

Remington mighty mite handlebars...

They came with three different handlebars. A magnesium version with a rubber inlay and two tubular steel versions. They were identical except the rubber grips on some. I've only seen the magnesium bars on deluxe or automatic saws. Base saws just bare painted steel.


I took two of the steel units to make a full wrap handle for sheets n grins. I coated it with spray on rubberized tool handle coating.