My wife was talking about getting a snowblower for VT “I’ll check Marketplace.”was my response. Found this about 20 minutes away; Husqvarna ST927e for $75. Went there, it ran, auger worked, ran through all the gears…sold! It’s in good shape; especially for the price. It needs a new gas gap and one of the shear pins looks like a bolt, I’ll probably replace both. I’ll change the oil and replace it with synthetic. Starts up fine with the recoil and the electric start works. So, now since we have this and the snow tires are on the truck, it probably won’t snow….
Seems like a great deal to me. Sure is nice having one when needed. I’ve owned a big craftsman for years. The sheet metal gets sprayed down liberally with WD at least once a year. Mine has a Tecumseh snow king too. It’s been bullet proof with just fuel stabilizer and oil changes. The electric start is nice.
Thanks Jason! Good call on the WD40, I’ll hose it down soon. It’s got a 9hp Tecumseh; need to get the specs for oil capacity and a plug.
I picked one up for free this fall. Carb leaks gas, but otherwise it looks fine. Google "snowblower impeller mod" I weld up the edges to reduce clearance. I can throw snow over one house and onto the next....found out the hard way.
I'd highly recommend servicing the auger gearbox. Also remove the belt cover and the cover underneath and lube pivot points, chains, slides ect. Great score!
Good call! Found the fill plug, but didn’t see a drain. I’ll have to dig deeper. Found a little time to remove the belt cover and inspect things and spray a little silicone on the pivots and the cable that actuates the auger. The oil drain plug is a bit rusty. I went to remove it and the extension tube that goes to the block moved as well. Luckily, I was able to use some vice grips to hold the tube and the drain plug came free. Ran it back and forth a few times and sprayed some silicone on the threads. I’ll clean that up when I actually remove it to change the oil. Gonna see if I can find an owner/service manual for this online somewhere.
Nice score! Keep it properly maintained and maybe you'll never have to use it. I changed oil and greased my Honda HS828 in mid November. Haven't started it since. My friend in the village bought a battery powered something and told me last week he's temped to sell it. I discouraged him for the above reason.
24 oz IIRC, but they aren't picky. Somewhere between 1/2 and full quart and it'll be fine. I like 5w30 or 5w40 in these. Champion J19LM for the plug. Keep some primer line on-hand, that's the most common issue for hard starts. Replace it with Viton/FKM line and never have to do it again. Carb kits are cheap/easy too. Just in case you need it with snow on the ground. If you are clearing a paved area, I'd swap for some aftermarket skid shoes and lose the goofy sheet metal skis. Pull the wheels and coat the axles in neversieze. Do this for the impellor drive pulley too if you ever have it split. Drop the belly pan and have a look at the traction drive. Fresh coat of chain lube on the drive chains is never a bad idea. I'd swap the gearbox oil out for a good synthetic. They'll tend to clog in sloppy snow, keep the inside of the business end, especially the impeller housing discharge opening, covered in a coat of fluid film. Best to do it after each use on a dry housing and with plenty of time for the FF to dry. These are entirely decent machines, and that engine will have plenty of power. Good buy!
Excellent info! Thank you! I ironically have some some dirt bike/ATV chain lube kicking around that I could use. I may split the unit this off season and change the belts for good measure. I’m guessing they are original. I did find the factory specs for the gear box lube and it appears to be grease vs actual gear oil. I’ll take a look in there this weekend and report back. The driveway is all grass. I’ll see how those skids hold up. Perhaps the extra length will help?
If you do, check for play in the impellor shaft bearing. Common wear point among ALL two stage blowers. The width will. Especially if the ground isn't frozen. Set it up for max clearance to the ground, if the scraper blade will retract up into the housing a bit, I'd take all you can get there too. No biggie leaving 1"-1.5" of snow on grass or gravel. Should never need to top that off then. If you ever get inside that gear box, I'd go back with a "corn head" grease.
Got a new blower couple years back wasn't cheap- plastic skids? @#$%^&*(), its got 1/2" thick steel shoes on it now. Likely outlast the rest of the unit.
This thing is a TANK! I was surprised with how far it threw the slushy snow today. We have a snapper 826 back in CT and that has basically the same engine; sans 1hp. This one throws snow a lot further. Almost like it has an impeller kit on it. Changed the oil today with full synthetic and put in a new spark plug. Next issue: Shear pins/bolts: The looks a bit off! There’s not bolt head on that size to grab to remove. May have to resort to the grinder to get one out of there. OEM Shear bolt part number: 532-14-20-90. They seem to be few and far between online and super spendy! Found one on eBay for reference: NEW HUSQVARNA SHOULDER SHEAR BOLT PART NUMBER 532 19 20 90 | eBay Maybe these would work? Or these: Let me know what you all think. Grabbed a cover for the blower recently as well. Fits nicely! Thanks Amazon.
For your shear pins I've used grade 3 bolts of the same diameter as the shear pins with no problem. Didn't take much to let go of the auger handle once i heard something other than rocks. They still sheared like they should. If your worried just use smaller diameter bolts. Once the auger and shaft get packed with snow the rattling stops. Done that before too.
That lift chair is bad azz! I have been on the hunt fora while haven’t found one worth the asking price just yet.