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Garage addition floor recommendations

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by The Wood Wolverine, Aug 16, 2023.

  1. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I built this garage addition ( Building a garage lean-to ) basically to get the mowers, snow blower, tiller etc out of my main garage. This opened up so much space, I decided to move all my wood working equipment out too, because I got a motorcycle lift and tire machines. What I want to do now, is add a hard floor and turn it into my wood shop. Most everything that needs it has a mobile base and the stones there now aren’t workable. Here’s a somewhat current pic:
    03D75073-1B8E-4F67-9B90-CC3064B3D6A5.jpeg

    What I’m seeking is ideas on a floor. My plan was to dig out stone to lay 2x4’s, then plywood on top of that, and keep it level with the existing concrete. Are there any cons I’m not thinking of? Would I need a vapor barrier of any kind?
    Appreciate the feedback.
    These pics from the other thread shows concrete/stone transition. I do not plan to remove the rack. I measured other places for it but I just don’t have a way to keep it out of the weather, so it stays.
    upload_2023-8-16_15-14-25.jpeg
    upload_2023-8-16_15-15-18.jpeg
     
  2. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    lukem care to have input here?
     
  3. lukem

    lukem

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    I wouldn't keep cast iron wood tools in a lean-to. Too must rusting is gonna happen.

    Treated plywood and 2x4s would probably cost more than concrete per sqft ft.
     
  4. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Not really a lean-to.. it’s pretty much fully closed up, not insulated though. I use Boeshield on the tools.
    upload_2023-8-16_22-7-55.jpeg

    Quick calculation says 5 sheets of ply. I have a bunch of old treated 4x4’s and some 2x’s laying around. I found ply @ $20 a sheet on fbmp. Wasn’t planning to use treated ply. It’s not going to be in contact with any ground and it’s not going to see any weather.
     
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  5. Jeffrey Svoboda

    Jeffrey Svoboda

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    Definitely a vapor barrier. Maybe a coat of some good waterproof paint on the underside of the plywood if it's not treated.
     
  6. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    I thought maybe you'd mention the limecrete...
     
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  7. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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    Because the transition is becoming more than what you’d planned, if it were mine, I’d take the effort and just finish it with concrete.

    when I lived in Fargo, I was able to get a couple small batches by calling when the crews were in the neighborhood and the trucks had a small amount that was too much to dump back at the yard. It was patience on my side and just waiting.

    Might be worth just Renting a larger concrete mixer and using bag concrete mix. Five sheets of plywood would be 37.5 cu ft or about a 1.25 yard.

    Future insight how you’re already changing the use of the lean-to, I think you’d be happier.
     
  8. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    I agree I would concrete the floor .. if for no other reason than wouldn’t want to dig out the rock..

    if you do it your way definitely a vapor barrier
     
  9. lukem

    lukem

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    It wouldn't be a good solution for fine sawdust and things that need to wheel around on small casters.
    Gotcha, didn't read your previous thread.

    A lot of high-end wood shops put in a plywood floor on top of their concrete so they can run dust collection, power, etc and they are easier on your feet and back. At that point you are committed to never driving anything heavy on it though.
     
  10. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I’d have to dig out much more of that crush and run stone if I wanted to pour concrete.
    edit: well, I guess I could pour more on top of the existing concrete but that would leave a lip at the entry and I’d probably have to remove the rack to do it right. I was hoping for an easy somewhat cheap solution.
    I’ll run some numbers and see what it would cost to do that. I found some 7/8 11.75” white pine boards 8-16’ lengths for $1.75 a lineal foot. That ended up almost $400.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2023
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  11. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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    I get it would be a LOT more work.

    but for the long run looking however far down the road knowing woodworking and other stuff will be done in there, a much better time investment at the front end.


    Menards bag mix is $3.62/ bag yield 0.45 cu ft. Need 83 bags. Be about $310 in concrete mix.

    concrete mixer rental is $50.

    probably get by with less as I figure a full 3” slab. Not sure I’d go less.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2023
  12. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    Interested in all solutions thar are easy & cheap

    I just never find them..
     
  13. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Hold my beer…
    9625EB0C-0409-495A-BFA3-47F174AF648F.jpeg

    Had these 4x’s laying around.
     
  14. savemoney

    savemoney

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    You could put down pavers. They make them all sizes. Put down a vapor barrier under them. Sweep sand into the joints.
     
  15. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    That's not a bad idea...and use polymeric sand, it'll help lock things together...or mix a lil dry mortar with the sand before sweeping it into the joints...that'll lock 'er up too.
     
  16. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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  17. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Could oil soak those (or DIY some rough cut timbers) and drop some plywood on 'em...dunno about there, but around here there are people selling plywood on FBMP all the time...one local guy always has "cull lumber" and some decent prices...I bought some plywood from him the one time that was just dirty.
     
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  18. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I found a guy on there.. he sold me 5 sheets of 3/4” ply for 150 cash. :salute::yes::yes: I don’t think that was too hateful. Lowest said $38 (+tax)ea.

    Nothing is set in stone yet, (pun intended). I’m just test fitting for now. I don’t think I have anything to use for a vapor barrier.
    357FD662-130C-4CB7-A833-5EDE6A929265.jpeg
    And pic above shows todays snafu. I found a major pad of concrete, seems to maybe be a ramp, that prevents me from laying the wood level with the existing concrete that’s showing. :headbang: It is what it is at this point.

    0600DF2E-B9F8-4B75-BC08-520F9C0A042A.jpeg 9BC33BEF-91B1-41D5-9AC0-9B68E451D516.jpeg

    Plan to cut one sheet in 1/2 long ways and add 2 more feet and call it good. That’ll be this weekend. Need to figure out what I have for screws too. :emptywallet:
     
  19. Sandhillbilly

    Sandhillbilly

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    Pour the concrete and be done with it.
    If you don’t, later you’ll wish you had.
     
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