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Truck question…do you buy first year of new model?

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by grandgourmand, May 14, 2023.

  1. grandgourmand

    grandgourmand

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    Hey,

    I’m in the market for a used truck. My choice is either a F-150 or a Tundra. Surprised to see better prices on Tundras…maybe because they consume more gas. Anyhow there’s a 2022 available. Decent price. But I always think it’s bad to buy the first edition of a new engine. The previous Tundra engine can go on forever, based on what I hear.
    Thoughts? Advice?
     
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  2. Chud

    Chud

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    Is the new Tundra a v6 hybrid?
     
  3. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    First year of anything is a bad idea...let somebody else be the Guinea pig, especially on a new engine.
    I went against my own advice once, bought a new Toro Z turn mower the first year they got into the Z turn market...yep, mistake.
    I justified it because Toro was not even remotely new to building mowers, and the Z turn was just a lil different configuration of the same thing...yeah, they still botched it.
     
  4. Warner

    Warner

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    NEVER!

    edit: worked at a dealership for a good while from that experience I would never by the first of any model or engine change. Unless you only plan on keeping it for the warranty period and don’t mind being in a rental economy car.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2023
  5. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    Nope It always comes back to bite you
     
  6. Will C

    Will C

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    I'm a Toyota fan-have a 2015 Tundra, had a 2005 and had a couple of Tacomas. Have been considering a new Tundra, but don't need one. I'll wait another year or so and see how the new engine is working out.
     
  7. grandgourmand

    grandgourmand

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    Not the hybrid

    the hybrid on the new tundra has worse fuel consumption I think. Weird
     
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  8. grandgourmand

    grandgourmand

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    Rarely is there consensus…but seems like we got it!!
     
  9. RCBS

    RCBS

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    Never done it with an auto. Have had mixed results with ATV purchases. Bought a spanky new 660 grizzly in 2002, first year, all new model. Had heat issues...vapor locking fuel system. Yamaha issued a 'heat kit' consisting of new side panels, exhaust wrap and new fuel lines. That said, they also detuned the engine slightly in 2003 when they addressed the heat issue. The 02 660 was the most powerful of the 660 bikes. Other hand, bought an all new model Kawaski Mule Pro MX that has been wonderful for four years now.

    Closest I got with vehicles was a second year model. Rear ends were grenading on the first year models. I had no issues with mine.
     
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  10. Ron T

    Ron T

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    The Silverado I have now is last model year. That was part of the decision making. That and they ranked better than Tundras that year.
     
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  11. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    My Superduty is an 03, not first year for the model by any means...has the ole 2 valve 5.4 in it too...last year for that engine in the F series...best one.
     
  12. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    First year is ok IF buying used and the history on whatever vehicle/engine is established. Many of the more expensive issues take at least 3 years for the road warriors to expose as their vehicles get to the end of their powertrain warranty mileage. If someone puts 30,000 miles a year on a vehicle, it will take them at least 3 years to reach 100k, which is where the problems begin on many vehicles.

    If you are buying a vehicle new enough to be concerned about an unknown reliability history, then it's likely covered under a manufacturer's warranty as well. If the reliability doesn't suit you, then sell/trade when the warranty is up.

    It's also amazing how some demand 100% uptime from a vehicle and never see the underside of the hood. Run it until it doesn't, SES/CEL/MIL on but "it runs fine" (and they have no idea what the cause is), oil changes :rofl: :lol:, service things like brakes and tires when either the vehicle or state mandated inspections force them too, etc. I've owned a few "problem" vehicles and a couple now notorious for their maintenance demands. The operator and their attitude towards maintenance and upkeep makes a huge difference.

    ETA: I generally like to pick a vehicle that's a "facelifted" version of the original model. They often look nicer, and any minor (sometimes major) issues have been sorted, and you usually get more features (hopefully useful) compared to the previous base.

    Ex: My '13 Silverado had a 6L80E automatic trans vs the old 4L60E that was standard in the early trucks of that generation. My MIL has a '14 Honda Odyssey which has a 6-Speed trans with improved reliability over the 5-speed in my wife's '13 Odyssey. My MILs van also doesn't look as old as my wife's, despite only 1 model year difference and they are essentially the same vehicle underneath.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2023
  13. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Just traded my '13 Silverado. It served me well, but after ten years of ownership, I don't think I'll be looking buy another '07-'13 Silverado.
     
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  14. RCBS

    RCBS

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    I'm shopping a 12 year old platform right now. Somehow, they are still making them. Not a whole lot that I like about the new stuff, so I'm purposely buying a 'dated' vehicle.

    Recent data point to support my decision. Owner of my workplace had driven a Ford Raptor for around 5 years. Sold it and bought a new Tundra Pro. He's slowly admitting that he liked the Ford better. I'm under the impression that there is very good reason that V8 engines were as prolific as they were. Turbos are for Diesel Engines. A V8 engine between 300 and 460 cubic inches is the perfect powerplant for a full size pickup.
     
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  15. grandgourmand

    grandgourmand

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    Yeah I like the “facelifted” idea..that’s what I’m after, really in going for a 2020-2021 Tundra.

    Nothing against Fords. In fact, the #1 selling vehicle should make maintenance cheaper. It’s just that used pricing is still stupid right now. Tundra’s a little less stupid.
     
  16. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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    I ordered a 2023 F150 XL because the truck I wanted was considered a true unicorn. A half ton with a minimum 2500 lb payload rating. Do they exist ? Only in someone’s garage who ordered it specifically like I did it would seem.

    I'm actually considering finding an old Willys 1-ton truck, or like BBR, an old Mercury pickup. That truck of his is cool as hell. Either one would be an awesome bomber truck for the woods.
     
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  17. Ron T

    Ron T

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    Mines an 18...Last of the square body trucks.
     
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  18. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Cost, and packaging. Pure and simple. Has NOTHING to do with power and/or torque as other engines are often better than V8's in that regard. The naturally aspirated V8 has good torque/power characteristics (And they sound great!), with more compact dimensions than most other options while being relatively inexpensive to produce. Modern production engineering has resulted in modular designs where V8's had interchangeable head castings and could share many parts with other engines in the same "family" further driving down the cost to produce them.

    Two of them strapped to a gas V8 works pretty good too. :rofl: :lol::whistle::dex: Although I've yet to see that offered on a factory pickup... yet.

    Turbos actually can be sized and tuned to make incredible torque curves that would suit a pickup just fine. I would love to see some whistlin' inline sixes on half-ton, and perhaps larger, pickups.

    I doubt that's true if we were to remove cost from the equation. If I could snap my fingers and produce any engine/truck, we could have some real fun. There are some flat, and in-line configurations that would be excellent. Then there are always V12's.... :cool:
     
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  19. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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    I’d still like to see a 300-6 come back into production for light trucks. True torque beasts.
     
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  20. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    With a proper cross-flow head on it, it would open up the top-end of the engine rpm band by orders of magnitude. You'd still get the torque (that's pretty much inherent to the I6 design), and whole lot more power when you drop the hammer.