We bought a truck. First one I’ve had since my 74’ F100. We like it. And I’m not looking to sink a bunch into it to make it more presentable. But there’s some easy things I think. First for me are these aluminum wheels. I’m following YouTube and I don’t know that I’m getting all or exactly what I’m looking for. Maybe I am. But maybe there’s a SME that can help a brother out. A before pic from this afternoons effort The after. Ran out of paper. Right now I’ve been using 600 wet/dry in a mostly wet condition. Not looking to bring it the Elks on Friday Cruze Night. But want it them to look acceptable, at least at 20 mph. Totally invite and welcome some experience here! Thanks in advance for some feedback
I’ve stripped the edges of motorcycle wheels and polished before. After you’ve worked through your grits, get some cloth drill attachments like these: And some of your favorite metal polish. I like Mothers.
Wet sanding is good to keep the paper from clogging up, and it pays to buy the good wet/dry paper. 3M is decent and readily available. Start with a coarser grit and work your way down to finer. Wear gloves because you don’t want to be absorbing aluminum slurry through the pores of your skin (studies have linked that to Alzheimer’s) If it were me I’d bite the bullet and sand right through the clear coat, (using power tools) then reapply a new coat. That way you’ll get a consistent surface finish.
0000 stainless steel wool and wd-40 works good on raw aluminum. (It'll turn your hands black, wear gloves)
I assume those were coated wheels....once they get oxidized underneath it takes stripping the clear coat and sanding or buffing with some pretty aggressive grit to get the oxidation off...600 grit is too fine. Also, you may be beyond this point, but my buddy uses oven cleaner to clean roached wheels...don't think it does the oxidation though... I'll hafta check with him.
Not sure sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) would "help" an aluminum wheel. Sodium Hydroxide dissolves aluminum. Usually, acid cleaners are used for aluminum.
I agree. Unfortunately, there is a LOT of work to be done with this project if you plan to put a mirror shine on these wheels. Then, if not clear coated, you will have to polish on a regular basis to keep them from getting dull. And I do mean a lot of work, especially if hand sanding.
Im not looking to get a mirror shine. Really just clean they discolored parts off, and provide a uniform patina so it looks ok walking by or if i drove past.
IMO, that's the clear coat layer coming off the wheel. To remove it, you're looking at a lot of sanding. Go down in grits till you see it coming off fairly quick. I'm thinking 320-220. Then you just need to go up in grits till you get the desired finish. I'm not sure if a chemical stripper would be better or not. I've used that with paint on metal body work but never on a wheel (with a tire).
I think I’m starting to lite at 600 One wheel looks much better after about an hour with that. I think I’ll drop back to 400, maybe 320 and come back to 600 and maybe 800 and above, depending how long my interest stays And the thanks, we really like it so far. Only 40 miles or so thus far.
Can you bump it up to 35? Fwiw when I had a 92 Civic si with shiny ultra wheels I’d regularly polish them with mother’s or some other mag, or aluminum polish and it made them look great for a short period of time. Good luck getting the luster back. The center of the wheel was a black diamond pattern with a chrome rim. Pretty sure I started the whole slammed civic with coffee can tailpipe trend.
A couple affirmations. I have been mostly been cleaning off and then tearing into the clear coat. 600 is too fine for initial address. took a few minutes with 400 and only on one spoke. That certainly does leave some scratches went back and hit it with some 600. it’s late in the day and light is low, but if there’s no big change under brighter light, I’m hopeful and doubtful, I could live with that result. Starting with the rear, because they were worst. an idea of what I’m deal with.