Well, here's the next one. 2011 +/- 1 year Stihl MS460. This thing was abused. No other way to say it. It has some kind of putty repair on a cracked fuel tank. I think getting a Farmertec fuel tank/rear handle is the way to go for $55. With a mix and match of oem and aftermarket parts I'm still over $400 in parts I've researched to rebuild this saw...and that doesn't include a bar or chain. I'm thinking maybe he will pass on it and give me the bones and let me build it for myself. It sure would be nice to add a 77cc saw to the arsenal with a nice 28" bar on it. What would you guys do? huskihl BuckthornBonnie M2theB MasterMech? The bearings appear good. Since I've taken it down this far maybe I should consider replacing them. Piston was scored, cylinder seemed ok. I can probably clean up the cylinder a bit easier than the last one. I didn't feel any scoring on the cylinder just a bit of aluminum transfer. Chain brake handle snapped. Saw handle literally hammered in to give more room for to activate the chain brake.....The reason it was snapped was because there was a ton of crud in there under the cover as the saw was never cleaned. Ever. The clutch needle bearing melted. You can see the needles are at an angle and not how they should be. Chain catch sheared. Inner dog spikes broken in two pieces. Chain brake band bent and needs to be replaced. Melted chain brake cover and that little triangular shaped separate cover (that's so weird I thought it was broken but upon closer inspection it was not. Dirty, dirty.......and more dirty. Holy moly. It had about 4lbs of sawdust/bar oil on it and inside of it. Rim sprocket needs to be replaced Worm gear melted. Clutch springs so shot that I was able to move all 3 pieces of the clutch with one finger! Now what in tarnation is this? Why is there a snap right UNDER the oil pump on the crankshaft? What the? According to the parts diagram....it's SUPPOSED to be there! Item #22 Part # 9455 621 1520 - Stihl Circlips Din471-15x1 Cleaned up after the first few rounds. It was so dirty that even after scraping off the big chunks before using the parts washer it took it over the edge and clogged the filter. Luckily I bought a 2 pack and I could tell because with the flow control ball valve wide open I had very poor flow. Swapped in the new filter and it was working like it should again. Solvent definitely has a yellow tint to it now (was originally 100% clear). It wasn't the big chunks either - the prefilter at the pump housing was slightly discolored but no visible chunks of anything. It's definitely the fine stuff. Here's before the new filter - notice you can't really see through the solvent at the bottom of the tank. Much better afterwards. Filled this tray up at an angle so I could see the color.
That is a rough saw for sure. It looks like it was pumping bar oil over everything except the bar. Think of all the tree services, utility clearance and logger saws that get used, tossed in a truck over and over and never see an air hose.
It would pain me, but I think I’d set that aside for parts or an opportunistic compliment saw to build one from two in the project que. My motive is to build them back, run it and then add it to the collection.
460 is probably a parts saw. You need to fix up a bunch of 039‘s to give to this guy. 460 and 461 both use a snap ring on the crankshaft so the worm gear doesn’t ride on the seal
Thanks for all the responses. Much appreciated. I know it takes time and effort to clean but man they really should do it. When it starts building up like that and melting plastic, you should be aware of that I'd think. Yeah my problem is storage. I really don't have much space to work with so either way I think I'm going to be building it! Which is going to be exciting but expensive. So far it's been (4) 372xp and (1) MS660. Given that he told me he'd be happy with 1 working saw I'd say he's in the money for sure. I've stihl got (get it?) one 372xp, a 395xp, 3120xp, 394, 371xp, 570 etech II (wtf is that?), 545 with a bad fuel line, (2) 242, and a 346xp to look at. If he had a fleet of 460s I'd say definitely a parts saw but this is the only one I'm aware of and I think it has some sentimental value to him as well. At first I thought that snap ring was most certainly a mistake! Yeah it's been sitting for 5 years or so he said! So sad!
I mean, if the customer wants to save it and isn't concerned with the costs.... who am I to say no? If it was just dirty, and needed to have that cylinder cleaned up, piston replaced, etc. then I would say go for it. But there's not much on that thing that hasn't been abused. Hammered handle, broken chain brake, front spikes are trashed, the rear handle/tank is junk, not a piece of plastic on it that's not broken or melted..... It would be iffy IF it had a good engine and you didn't mind having an "ugly saw" around. But your photos show melted bearing cages, and I wouldn't trust the main bearing or rod bearing cages to be 100% either. So we're talking about a case split, and total rebuild. I haven't done a FarmerTec rear-handle, my experience with them on other plastic chassis parts has been sub-par. I would be wary on a saw that sees the duty-cycle a 460 typically does. Different perhaps if it's yours and you know to go easy on it. Even if doing this for yourself, you'd have $500 in it which is a heck of a long ways towards a new saw of equivalent performance (stock anyways) that someone has not beat the dog-doo out of. Or even a very nice used saw in the 70cc class. I bet either one comes with a good/new bar and chain too! Sentimental value - I doubt it. Nobody using it gave a flying fornication about that saw. A shame really.
Yeah it definitely had the snot beat out of it and wasn't never taken care. It is a shame. I think the main bearings ok actually - very smooth action and no resistance at all. And this is after dunking it in the parts washer. I did put a new filter on the parts washer and flushed it out with 2-stroke mix and I think there's a good chance it won't require a split. That said, upon closer inspection the clutch drum was smoked black and blue and if I do put a new piston in there I'd replace that wrist pin bearing for sure. I haven't had any experience with the Farmertec parts as important as this...but to replace it with a new OEM one would make it totally not worth it for anyone to rebuild. That said they have had their G466 so for the amount I pay for parts to rebuild this saw I could get a brand new clone saw. Either experiment is probably worth it in my opinion and I'm leaning more towards rebuilding this one. I like the alliteration with the "flying fornication" heh heh. Nice!
Naaa, you should split that case and replace the bearings as MasterMech stated. Here’s why- 1128s in the 77cc class are already “under-bearing-ed” in having just 6202 c3s as their mains. My opinion based on my experience wrenching on this class of saws. Sure, they work and an engineer would probably differ from me, but I see failures. The potential melted nylon cage as pointed out. The clutch drum and oiler system shows signs of immense heat. That heat transfers to the mains and causes problems. The air baffle support shows signs of ingestion. That wears out engines over time. Rarely (but I’ve seen it twice) 046/460s wear out the crank interference on the pto side. This could be ameliorated by replacing loose bearings before that fit is lost… but it’s not noticed until there’s a major air leak or the seal is damaged.
The 13-21 Farmertech tanks are very good. I’ve had success with 1122s, 1128s (440 x2) and 1125s. Their prices have increased but I don’t know about their quality. It varies so much between suppliers and production runs. Do not try an aftermarket 1128 handle. They’ll bend. Watch eBay for a used oem. Chain brakes are typically fine from Farmertech… chain brake mechanisms and springs are junk.
MasterMech has a hell of a thread on here or the other site about this model. He rebuilt two of them back in the day. Check ‘em out when ya can.
Ok thanks you make a fair point. There was definitely a lot of heat on the clutch side. And I assume this is the side that the bearings get trashed more often than the flywheel side. And yeah it sure would suck to put a bunch o' parts into it only to have the dang bearings fail.
Helluva walk down memory lane with these two saws. 1128 series Stihls, the "old site", Scotty Overkill, and Kenis (DexterDay) all in one thread. Not to mention all the other familiar names in that thread. Building the MS460 | Hearth.com Forums Home Building the MS460: Epilogue - The 2nd Saw | Hearth.com Forums Home I've got a few videos of both saws on my YouTube. The shiny one was sold and delivered at the first-ever FHC G2G.
This is the kind of sharing and caring I'm talking about. Thank you very much. I went to the wrong "other" site in search of the thread after not finding it here! Heh heh.
It's rough, but I've seen worse....I bought one a few years back that made the one you have look good....ended up selling it for what I paid for it to blacksmith . It was definitely a "parts-only" saw. That being said, if you're not after a shelf queen, any saw is rebuildable and in my opinion theres no shame in using a few aftermarket parts (I'd stay away from mechanical parts from China), I've used AM plastic and even a case in some builds I've done (and I've used a FEW AM pistons and cylinders, but had to tweak them to be right).
I'm rebuilding it for me. Woo hoo. Now the question is....................Stihl Light vs Sugihara vs Tsumura bars. I'm thinking I should go 28" because I have the Makita with the 14", the 028 with a 18", the 034 S with a 20", so with 77ccs I should be well covered with a full comp 28" for big boy buckage. Anyone had all 3 bars? Performance/longevity vs price?
I would put a 24” Stihl light bar on a 460. With many saws and bar sizes I’d be shocked if I ever wear a bar out cutting firewood. I prefer stihl bars on stihl saws. I have a 28” Tsumura, but it doesn’t feel light compared to Stihl light. Oregon on Stihl, or Stihl on Husqvarna is blasphemous imo.
I just figured it'd be nice to have a nice long bar in case I really need it. Plus I can always slap the 20" bar from the 034 S onto it as it's the same 3/8" pitch and .050" gauge. When I sold the 028 I rebuilt it had an Oregon 18" bar on there. It looked fine hahahahahaha and performed fine too! I don't think Stihl bars work on Husky though because of the mounting system and the location of the oiler holes..... I think I'm going to run this saw with the existing bearings. I know it's a bit of a risk but I'm not throwing this into service commercially so I think it's going to be ok. The bearings seem fine, zero wiggle, no crunchiness, nice and smooth. I think Huskil said the Stihl Light bars are the lightest of the three......
I done got some parts. Ordered a 28" Tsumura light bar 3/8" pitch .050" gauge 91DL. $109 + free shipping + tax = $119.20. Going to run the 33RS91 chain on this guy. Got the following: Replacement handle (Farmertec) Replacement tank/handle (Farmertec) Piston/Cylinder kit (Hyway) - I'm returning this because there was a huge scratch on top of the piston. Even though it probably won't make a difference I don't think a brand new part should look like that. I'm going to get a Meteor p/c kit instead since I've had some good success (knock on wood) with Meteor....and when I mean success I mean the (4) 372xp x-torq saws and the (1) MS660 are actively being used by the tree service buddy. He was lamenting that the MS660 is hard to start....but I think it's just hard to start in general, am I right? Clutch kit (Oregon) - 3/8" rim sprocket, clutch cover, e-clip and washer Clutch needle bearing (cross) Transferred over the impulse line and the metal tank protector plate. Will keep the oem trigger assembly, handle cover, and switch just in case the AM doesn't work out.
