In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

using a MS261C for a sawmill

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by fishguy, Mar 26, 2022.

  1. fishguy

    fishguy

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    I'm not doing a lot of sawmill action - actually once I cut three living shelf pieces I may never need to cut again. Yet them I may find I like doing shelf/furniture and who the heck knows.

    I've got one of those simple chainsaw jigs - I've made a few cuts but this one log I want to turn into some shelf's -the issue is I need to run a 24" bar.

    I know there is no .325 pitch bars that fit my saw - but seeing some offbrand "8TEN" 3/8 pitch bars/chain that come in 24" and claiming to fit my saw.

    I know this is underpowered but it's only for three slabs. Don't want to destroy my saw either.

    If I go with this china offbrand -do all I need to do is switch my sprocket to 3/8? Should I NOT do this?
     
  2. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    I milled a 14” diameter 8’ long hickory log with my MS290. That’s also my daily firewood saw. It worked. And the saw continues to run just fine. I think you can make it work.
     
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  3. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    You'll have no issues at all switching that saw to 3/8. Just get the correct rim sprocket and bar to match.
    I've milled a ton of wood, and beyond. For smallish stuff, your 261 will do fine, just use a bit more oil in your mix (I've used 40/1 for all I've done) and richen the tune a bit. I've never used a dedicated milling chain either. Just adjust the angles a bit and it'll work fine (10-15 degree top plate). Now the choice of cheap chinese brand chain is another matter... :whistle:. Ya get what you pay for.
     
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  4. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum fishguy.

    Good luck and I doubt that saw will mind.
     
  5. M2theB

    M2theB

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    welcome aboard

    i milled a dozen or so beams with a Husqvarna 353 years ago.
    I wish I knew then what I do now, or had access to this site.

    it faired fine. I did finally swap top ends on that saw and there was some transfer on the cylinder. Can’t say it was the milling for sure though.
     
  6. SAWMIKAZE

    SAWMIKAZE

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    You can get yourself a 24" bar in .325

    I'm not sure what your skill level is with working on stuff but if you plan to mill with that putting an oil pump bolt from a 461R in your oil pump isn't a bad idea, I'd do it even if I wasn't planning on milling anything and it's only a couple bucks to upgrade. It's not like having the option to have more oil on your chain is ever a bad thing.
     
  7. fishguy

    fishguy

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    Thanks folks. I was thinking about this and my pappy told me to never go cheep on chainsaw equipment. His first law on chainsaws - "That life is too short for fat women and bad chainsaws." That when you are out in the woods that few bucks you saved will often cost you an afternoon you can't get back, and just challenge you it's entire lifespan.

    It's just that do really want to mill this piece of cherry. In the pic I made one cut but had to go from both sides, so not the best. Anyway I was thinking of going cheep but that violates my pappy's first law of chainsaws. Now that I think about it - let me just move my old MS290 to 3/8 sprocket and get a matching 24" bar. I can leave that setup on for when I need a longer bar. I may also mill a chain down to 10-15D for mill work on my old bench chain grinder.

    Suggestions on what brand bar/chain to get? I used to only buy stihl, and still feel that way about saws - but for accessories they rake you up now.
    sawnill.jpg
     
  8. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I'm not well versed in my Stihls but a plastic case saw isn't the best choice for millin.

    I've found these Tsumura bars to be very good steel and affordable.


    As far as chain goes, I can only speak from personal experience. Stihl makes great chain but it's wayyyy over-priced. Most of what I use is Oregon LGX and EXL. Also have 2 loops of Carlton and it's very good too. Like mentioned, top plate at about 15 degrees and off to work you go.
    IMG_1916.JPG

    I've been hooked on square filed/ground for a while too.
    IMG_0840.JPG
     
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  9. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    I'd prob stick with the 261 as it'll have waaaay better power and a rim sprocket drive if you haven't already converted the MS290.

    Does Cannon still offer Picco bars in long lengths? Once upon a time you could buy 3/8"P bars in 24"+ sizes from them. And there are 3/8P rims for the 261. You'd have to have the chains cut to custom lengths but that's no biggie. Narrower saw kerf, less power needed, plus it's just fun putting together a not-so-common setup for a specific purpose.
     
  10. Redneck

    Redneck

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    I used my ported 241 for milling a few logs this year. Go slow add extra oil at the end of the bar.
     
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  11. Lennyzx11

    Lennyzx11

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    This thread was a good find for me. I bought one of the Alaskan mills and have wanted to try it but with a brand new 362 and a 261, thought they would be too small and it would be too hard on them.
    I may dust the box off the CSM is in.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. James Miller

    James Miller

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    I've never milled anything before, but may be learning how soon. I'd put my ported echo 590 on the mill before my 2095 unless it's something huge. I can still get all the parts for the 590 if something goes south, the 2095 not so much.
     
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  13. Lehman

    Lehman

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    I’d figure 2095 parts still wouldn’t be horrible to find but maybe I’m wrong.
     
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  14. Lehman

    Lehman

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    I’ve milled lots and while the 261 or 029 will be underpowered just go slow and take your time with a sharp chain.
     
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  15. James Miller

    James Miller

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    They can be found. But not as easy as walk into the dealer and order them.
     
  16. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    For any of you fellers with bad backs (like mine)…

    If ya’s haven’t seen this guy, he put together a pretty decent DIY chainsaw mill-


    And here’s 1 of the build vids-
     
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  17. gwoods71

    gwoods71

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    Well it looks like I have a new mantra to live by...

    As far as the milling goes, if its just a few logs/ boards, I say run what you have and let it fly, worst case you need a new bar and chain.

    Or figure what a CSM, bar, chain, etc. costs, and try to find someone with a portable mill nearby and see what they charge for the job, compare the two costs.

    Just my .02