New wood stove, new learning curve

So, the first thing I noticed with my new stove (Drolet Escape 2100) is that it can definitely put out some heat. The new stove even drafts better than the old one. It has only reverse drafted on me once since install.
But one thing I've noticed is that the fire box seems to fill up with ashes quite quickly. Like inside of 2 days and it's about 3 inches deep in there. And ashes are always pouring out everytime you need to open the door.
Now, granted, I have been burning a lot of Ash wood lately, and that seems to leave large unburned chucks of carbon behind. The Elm that I burn during the day doesn't seem to build as fast. And I get that it is larger so it can hold double the wood as the old stove.
Oh and the other thing it's doing, is having all the flames go out and leaving large piles of red coals in there. From that point you can't load it with out making the problem worse. It's just going to happen again in the next couple hours then the pile will be bigger. So what you have to do is, let it burn with the air control open to burn down the coals as much as you possible before reloading. That may be as long as 4-6 hours. And, consequently, the long periods between reloadings are leaving the house and basement a bit cool ( 65'F and cooler).

I dont even know what questions to ask, really? I'm just sort of in a situation that I know I can get out of ,but for now seems like the new stove isn't so hot after all.

I'm just in that frustrated new phase of having something new.

 

Do you have any pine or other "non coaling" wood? If you do, just throw that on your pile o coals and enjoy the heat while the coals burn down...

 

Yeah I have lots of pines/spruces. That would help maybe alternating or just seeing when the coals are piling up...

 

Yep, I have found that that works

 

I've open the stove draft all the way and open the stove's door with a screen in front of the door.I get the fireplace effect with the heat from the coals doing a good job.When they burn down add more wood or scoop out some ash to make more room for splits.

 

I have a lot of ash, I did with all three EPA stoves I have owned, the thick barked Green Ash is the worst one for me to leave chunks on unburnt wood in the stove, thin barked White Ash does not do this at all.
This is the nature of the EPA stoves (non cat), I have posted a link a few times but does not seem to be much agreement with that point of view.
All my wood is 18% or lower but green wood can make this situation worse.
You will learn what is the best way to deal with it so hang in there, I think you have a good stove.
I will add the coaling issue is usually when the stove is driven hard, its much better when its a little warmer then below zero temps.

 

on my nc 30 if i have a real huge coaling issue i add forced air ( hair dryer) to the main intake. It does not cause any over temp problems for me. Other times I just rake coals forward and plant a split on top of them control wide open, most of the time that will reduce the amount significantly. Just a note that my 30 still has a dog house that provides the bulk of combustion air , as I understand it the newer stoves seem to have gotten away from that.

 

A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood - Too much charcoal? Here is the solution

 

I remember you actually posted that before, somewhere else.

 

Thank you for sharing.

 

Like others have said, when it gets down to coals, especially deep coals, I'll stir the coals with my poker, open my air wash all the way and crack the door. Stir the coals after 20 minutes or so, once the coals burn down to an acceptable level then toss a log on.

 

So, the last few days I have been running the wood stove at 100% ......air control open. I still close it overnight.
Wow! No more coaling issue, but, man, it was 91°F in my basement.......91!!!

 

With temps like that, Backwoods Savage would find nothing wrong with the setup!