Something like you say for the tractor at 80 hours for me ( and not disagreeing by all means ) just would not be what I would do. My mower averages about 40 hours a year doing just my lawn and it gets changed once a year no matter what. Could it go longer and save a few bucks on oil and a filter; sure it could but I just feel that a yearly oil change is part of the yearly maintenance. Maybe I am a little over the top on this sort of thing but for me it works , being older now and I want to protect my investment that should outlive me.
I change my tractor every 40 as well. It helps to have the hour counter! I never got an owners manual when I bought my splitter so I couldn’t quote the change interval. With today’s modern synthetics, I doubt 80 is hurtful. We just got done changing oil in my daughters car and the Mobil she bought is guaranteed for 20k. I think it’s hard for people to trust that but I don’t doubt it. Read up on some used oil analysis, the proof is there.
No doubt that today's oil technology has come a long way over the years. I'm old school though , hard to grasp that oil could last 20k for an old guy like me. I still do my regular oil changes at 3000 miles. Not that I doubt it can last that long but some things just don't seem right.
As far as the no start, sounds like either the fuel valve is turned off, or it fouled a plug...try a new one. As far as maintenance, oil changes and keep the air filter clean...one thing about these consumer grade splitters is that they have hydraulic oil tanks that are too small...the result is that the hydraulic oil runs too hot (compared to ideal) so if you run it hard its not a bad idea to change the hyd oil, maybe even as much as every year or two (depending on how many hours you put on in a year...and the ambient temp when you run it too)
Engine maintenance, on a small, unfiltered, splash lube engine - oil changed every 25 hours of operation. Got an oil filter? Then every 50 hours should be more than enough. As pointed out, most OEM's are recommending longer durations now. For better/tighter/cleaner engines, (like an automotive engine) you can go MUCH longer as they contaminate the oil at a far slower rate and tend to have larger sump capacities too. My BWW 3 series has a 3.0L engine, with a 7 quart sump. 15k is the factory recommended interval. My wife's Honda is 3.5L, 4.5 qt sump. 7500 mile interval. For hydro maintenance, I'd just swap the filter annually or as needed and monitor the condition of the fluid. The fluid is going to sustain more degradation due to moisture than anything else. If the fluid is super cloudy or white, then figure out how it's getting moisture in it and then change the oil. If the hydro fluid temps are exceeding 180 degrees - maybe look at some kind of cooler if you intend to keep the machine. Otherwise place your order for a better machine and keep on rolling.
Just got back to the splitter and got to thinking maybe it has some kind of low oil shutoff? It barely indicates it could use a little so I added some but overdid it and now I think it has too much. I still can't get it cranked. So, now I am wondering if it has this oil level indicator shutoff gizmo, too much oil would shut it off, too. So, been trying to wick some out of there but it still looks to me like it has too much. I do have a dipstick on this motor. Anyone know if there is an oil level shutoff? I seem to recall something like this happening to me. I know it did on a boat one time but I am thinking this might have happened on this splitter. Crazy I can't say for sure. No, the fuel is not shutoff, was first thing I checked. Need to go back and see if it's getting fire. UPDATE PRIOR TO THIS POST... Before I finished this post, I did a search on this forum because something is in the back of my mind regarding an issue with this splitter before, and I did find a thread or two on that. There were some pointers from several of you (including possibly a low oil shutoff) and I will go back and dig in. As for the issue the time before (2019), can you believe... the dang splitter suddenly started working right before I went to start replacing parts. I decided to try one more time before the spend and it started! Weird! I wish that would happen now because I need to be splitting!
Correct on the oil, what's not factored in is the dirt in small equipment that gets past the air filtration system or lack thereof. I change the oil in my splitter engines every 30-40 hrs. Hydraulic oils about every 500, we run the pizz outta these things. Cheap insurance imo.
I don't believe there is a low oil switch on the the 6.5 Kohler motor. I didn't look back through to see if you put a new plug in it. Spark? If not check the on /off switch wiring. Hard to be a keyboard mechanic not being able to look the machine over.
Check spark first. No spark, disconnect low oil switch, still no spark, check/disconnect engine shutoff switch. Also loosen fuel cap & try it. Mine doesn't vent well & can run the carb dry.
You can check spark, but just because it shows spark still doesn't eliminate the possibility of the plug being fouled...they will sometime fire in open air, and then not when under compression (I'm sure you know this AC, just explaining for others) You can try to clean it, but that often doesn't work...for the price of a plug for this thing, I'd just throw a new one in it...if it still doesn't start, then you likely have a good spare plug. (I'd then put the old one back in it once you get it running...that way your spare is basically new...but I'm cheap, so...)
Those Kohlers use two looooong bolts to hold the intake manifold, carb, and air cleaner housing together and in place on the block. If you have spark give them a check for tightness.
check the coil and flywheel if there is no spark , mine was coated with baked on sawdust . sanded it up and it starts like a new machine. mine is a TSC Husky bought new in 2003 and that is the first repair made.
Correct, but ya gotta know what's missing, spark, fuel or compression. I use a high resistance spark tester, that'll tell you what the ignition system is doing. I agree a spark plug just held to ground isn't a foolproof test, but it would at least show a "live" ignition. This eliminates oil shutdown or bad switch if you've got something coming outta the coil.
