Recent iterations of the 562 have an internal plastic wall between the fins and the air filter. There is a punchout to create a hole in that wall, which the manual says to do below 23 degrees, if I recall correctly. There's also a rubber plug included with the saw, which they say needs to be put in that hole if it gets above 23 degrees. I talked to my local shop about this recommendation, and they said not to bother unless the air filter is icing up. I've never had an issue with the air filter icing as our winter air is usually pretty dry. The shop's reasoning was that most of the time you're fine not messing with it, and you'll lose or forget the plug if you start putting it in and out. Running the saw in the heat without the plug could be bad. I agree that the plug is pretty fiddley, and does seem easy to get lost or forget. Do you plug or not?
My opinion is to do as the shop said and ignore it. If you have icing and I doubt you will you can do it then.
Leave the knock out alone unless you have problems. I've cut in temps below zero and no problems in my Jonsered 2152 or Husqvarna 555. Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
Even the oldies have that cold weather port to push in warm air. I've never cut in extreme temps so I have never messed with it. I'd think by the time it was a problem it's too late, so if cutting well below zero, why not just open it up? If you lost the plug, you could cut 2 squares of gorilla tape and put one on each side of the hole. Cold Trigger Finger might chime in w/ some advice.
Usually the issue isn't extreme cold. Carb Icing tends to happen in temperatures just above freezing with high relative humidity. So if it's 34 and raining, you'd be more likely to ice the carb than if it was 0 and a bright clear day.
My stihls or dolkita have a reversible winter/ summer air gate under the filter cover. I put them in the correct position for the conditions. Nothing really to lose as you just put it on one way or the other.
