Recommend a replacement, 14” 30-40cc limbing/trimming

Here’s the situation …

For limbing and trimming I have two 14” saws. A Stihl MSO18c and a Stihl MS170. Unfortunately both are in the shop now for repairs (one for a carburetor, go figure, it went down a few days ago) the other is being dropped off today. The most recent one stopped running yesterday during some timber clearing. All my saws werw serviced this summer with new air and fuel filters. I run non ethanol fuel etc etc. Very frustrating. I’ve owned both saws for over 10 years and are PM’d properly.

I want to upgrade to a professional grade saw. 14” bar. Between 30-40cc’s. I’d like to get a Husqvarna to pair up with my 346XP but I only see top handle saws in this range for Husqvarna. No go on the top handle saws.

I’d prefer to stay away from a current production Stihl’s due to the cheap ChiCom junk carburetors they’re using. However, it looks like Stihl may be my only option in a professional grade for the specs I’m wanting.

What’s the group’s recommendations on make/model. I’d entertain an Echo but I want a professional grade. Buy once, cry once and all that. Needs to be gas.

 

Welcome aboard !

i would think you’d be boxed in with T if you wanted a reliable pro saw. And a Stihl at that. Looking forward to see what others say.

 

I think echo has what you'll want. I just hate their website. You can't tell what's a pro saw or not very easily. You think they would want to flaunt if a saw is magnesium case or not without having to dig too far, and on multiple sites. I love dolmar/ makitas, but with them getting out of the gas saw biz, I need to look more at echo. I like Stihl saws too, but they are more money for similar products than other brands.

 

I talked to my dealer when I went up to drop my saw off for repair. I stand corrected, both are MS018C’s.
His Stihl recommendations were:

mid grade: 194C $409
professional grade: 201C $ 739. 050 14” bar.
Off to do research. Both are in stock. Shockingly.

 

I would think you could buy an Echo for substantially less, they are good saws.

 

JimBear Echo CS 361P?

 

ECHO-USA | Top or Rear Handle Chainsaws

Anything from the from the 310 - 400 would fit your requirements. I have a 2511t and it has been very reliable & durable saw. My 2511t came with a 14” bar but I put a 12” bar on it.

I had never thought much about Echos until I started reading a bit about them & hearing others that own them talk about their experiences with them. I have not heard of anyone that uses them regularly have anything negative to say about them.

Like Horkn said their site is not super descriptive. Hopefully someone that has used Echos will chime in also.

Welcome also.

 

30-40cc pro saws limit you to the ms 201c-m for Stihl no idea if husky even makes that small a pro saw right now. The 30cc huskies are rebadged poulans so I’d stay away. 10
Years is a good life for a 170 or 180 that gets used. The echo would be fine if you have a dealership around because it sounds like you have them fixed. The Chinese carbs are on husky and Stihl probably echo too hard to get away from them. Zama is owned by Stihl only exception is zama USA, and husky used a ton of zama carbs along with Chinese Walbros. The Stihl 194 rear handle is a nice saw that holds up well to daily use even though it’s a clamshell. Otherwise you’re back with the 170-211 saws.

 

Stihl 201CM replaced my less than a year old MS170. Bought it used for $350. Very low hours. Wasnt aggressively seeking one but the deal came along.
I also own a top handled version of the same saw as well (deal showed up and i couldnt say no) as an MS194t (top handle i bought new). Both limb well one handed.

Ive heard good things about Echo saws but have never owned/used one. Their tiny 2511t saw has me curious and have thought about buying one. Held one at my OPE dealer last year.

 

How are you liking the ms201C-EM? Any issues with it being difficult to re-start after running it? I’ve heard this is an issue. This saw is at the top of my list. Will be going to my a dealer to talk to him about an equivalent Echo if there is one. He carries all 3 brands.

 

The echo 355 is down on hp but torque is pretty equal to the Stihl 201t-cm. Don’t know if the echo comes in a rear handle but I do know the Stihl 201t and rear are the same set up for saws engine wise. Have 4-5 different tree guys up here that I repair saws for and between them all they have 8 201t’s that I muffler modded and timing advanced. No issues starting cold or restart hot in that tree even at 80-90 degrees outside. The 193/194’s have been great also some going on 5-6 years old and used pretty much every day in a tree.

 

I doesnt get a whole lot of use but have no complaints about it. Cold and hot starts without issue. Ran it last week for a bit.

I had problems with my 170 even though it was only a few months old so i sent it packing. When i want to cut wood, i want to cut wood, not curse at a problematic saw.

It was actually my first Mtronic saw. I bought the top handle 201cm and the 500i soon after this one so now own three of them. I was very skeptical of the Mtronic and now wish my other saws had it.

Would i buy a 201 new? For the asking price, no, but considering the deals i got on my two i couldnt pass them up.

Look into a 193 (no longer made but NOS may be around) or a 194 rear handle. About half the price new.
My 194 i bought new and no issues with it.

Id buy Echo over Husqvarna. I own a hand held Echo leaf blower and love it.

Let us know how you make out.

 

The 500i is a very nice and smooth saw with the fuel injection, the 194 is mostly the same as a 193 main difference is 2cc bigger than the 193 and it has a scan port on the coil for mdg1 to hook up and tract hours and starts ect. Mtronic saws are actually fairly simple and in my opinion nothing to be scared of, still has a carb it’s just adjusted by a solenoid vs by hand.

 

I have had a Stihl MS192 C-E for years (30cc) running a 16" bar and it is the only Stihl I have never liked. Once it is running it's a great small saw however it has always been a PITA to start. Usually once it kicks over (when starting from a cold start) it will die and then I have to let it sit for a few minutes before it will fire up again (it runs fine afterwards). Might just be my particular saw however I would not recommend getting a used one (they are no longer in production).

 

Thanks for the insight and sharing. I guess my fear is when it breaks anything electronic is expensive to fix. Fixing saws is not my thing either. Ill do basics but thats it.
Welcome to the FHC btw! Great to have you.

 

Now you tell me!!! Just bought a used one couple weeks ago.
My friend is working on it.

 

Thanks I fix a lot of locals saws off and on and if I have any ideas to fix an issue Anyone has I’ll help when I can

 

Don’t seem bad overall starting wise maybe the hard starting one needs a new carb rebuild along with a line and filter.

 

Well my friend called last night and said only 70lbs compression on his guage but no scoring when he took muffler off. He was debating on tearing it down and checking or using tranny fluid piston soak.
When i got the saw i tried the "pull rope" compression test and it passed. Only $125 so if it needs major work not too bad. My friend and i barter when he works on saws for me.

 

Let me know how it turns out. If I had known you were looking, I would have sold you mine.