Log splitters

I like that!!


Slick that you can split vertically and not work from the ground.

 

Bullet That splitter must be were power split got their idea from. I really like that style splitter. Is the hydraulic tank on yours the axle?

 

Awesome I didn't know if you could still buy this style
Never see them around
Yes the axle is a big rectangle hydraulic tank on mine

 

Changed all the fluids with synthetic. I left the splitter outside last night to get her cold. Was -17* this morning when I went out to change fluid it was 7*. I doubt the splitter had time to warm over zero.


What surprised me was how thick the motor oil was, think cold molasses, and the hydraulic oil was more like honey thick. I put AMS oil small engine 10-30 in the motor and Coastal full synthetic hydraulic.

When I started the splitter it was a 2 pull start i put 5 gallons of synthetic in the 6.5 gallon system. The pump still had conventional hydraulic oil.
After splitting this amount of birch what surprised me was how cool the cylinder was. In these temps it’s normally warm to the touch. It will be interesting what temps the cylinder will get in the warmth.

This is Jake my guard lab, no sandwich get past his watchful eyes.

 

My home built tractor splitter. Only snag is it's all rather bulky (with tractor). It has a warning plate on the side you can't see which reads "Attention. This machine has no brain. Use your own" This however is engraved in German, so those that borrow it ask what it says.....They don't forget.
Works a treat on mainly easy to split Ash. Also has slip on four way wedge, not fitted in photo.

 

Just retired my old Yard machine and upgraded to a Rugged Split 37 ton with a log lift. Happy with it for the price.

 

Home Depot deal of the day has a Power King kinetic splitter 30% off.

 

I would not waste funds on the the Chi-com clone kinetic splitters - even Speco and DR( well dr might still be selling theirs) both had a ton of problems. Super split out of Ohio is the originator- perhaps patents ran out - but sales and service are their bread and butter- something ( service and parts) that you are not going to get through HD on those here today gone tomorrow clones. Hydraulic splitters are very simple- and easy to repair for the most part even using locally available parts vs OEM. Course I am one of those guys that can fix just about anything and have the tools to do so and realize not everyone has those abilities or big boy toys. Warranties are only as good as the company behind them. HD does not service splitters but farms it out which may or may not be convenient for you. Another thing about splitters- they might say road towable - yep, at about 20 mph as most are solid axle or stubs , no springs, and those that the stubs are welded to the tank mostly spring leaks in the tank welds from being towed. ( just my experience- they are a pia to re-weld to seal leaks).

 

I've had good experience with warranty on the countyline. Just saying, because it's a big box store china splitter.
2 time actually, once was just a question to their service line and another on the valve. No questions asked, shipped a new one.

 

Hopefully I get this thing running in spring

 

Another year gone by with no fix. I towed it to the fabricator to look at and he didnt have enough employees to take it in and then the motor seized up in my firewood hauler (93 Sierra 6.5 diesel) so I have to put a motor in. The turbo was leaking and caused shaky starts in the morning. That led to a motor mount failing and the motor dropped on the engine oil cooler line while I was on the highway with a load of mulberry on ffs. pulled over and the motor still turned, replaced the line with new oil and filter and turned the key and it turned a tiny bit but wouldnt move after that

 

I can't like that, especially right before Christmas. Maybe Santa can............

 

The theory of your splitter works on other splitters. Your specific design allows for so much flexing throughout the entire splitter I only see it binding and self destructing constantly. In actuality your splitter needs to be built using a specific beam for your pusher to operate from and which all motion is applied to. The table should be independent of this not part of the "framework". Think of a studded wall without a diagonal brace and trying to lift it in place, it is a wiggly combination of pieces of 2x4's. The one diagonal brace keeps it solid, square and strong during the lift. The height of the brace for your push box also allows for greater torque to be applied causing twisting to occur. I cannot comment on the weld failure except to say if the root weld wasn't laid correctly, no matter how many passes were applied, it was destined to fail. I say that only because it looks like a weld failure not a metal fatigue issue on that.
So, I hate to tell you, great idea, but I don't think this specific design will hold up and without a major redesign, I think you will be forever frustrated and be spending money on this splitter. I am not saying you need can't utilize the components you have, just the construction needs to be specific to the main beam.

 

Purchased this house with a fireplace in 2006. First year purchased a couple of loads of wood and learned that was enough of that. Amassed an entire backyard of wood and was trying to hand split (I stink at it) when I met Lefty. He had a Lickity splitter and allowed me to use it. We shared it until 2009 when I purchased the Huskee 35 ton from TSC. That ended up at his place and his at mine. Upgraded the Lickity to the Country Line 25 ton from TSC in 2016 and sold the Lickity. As Wood Doctor from OPE is also splitting wood at Lefty's I moved the 25 ton out there as well.
Not sure how much wood either splitter has split but neither have given an ounce of trouble and still start on first pull unless operator error is involved.

 

Well Ill be up all night listening for him in the chimney

 

thanks for the tips. If only the welder knew hydraulics. He works for TTC bus/streetcar/ subway here in for Toronto so he's good but not allround

 

It needs a sleeve made out of bolted together plates, I was thinking of gussets all around the table top

 

The way I see it, you need to create a central beam that the pusher rides on, the box cutters on each side need to also be connected to this main beam. The table and log lift can be attached later but not part of the foundation. Even though it can split with each slide of the cylinder, you will handle each piece of wood more than once on that style of splitter. If you only had the box at one end with an L beam that would pull the piece of wood back to the back of the wedges to be resent through them again. In making a long story short, the pieces that do the work, the cylinder, the box (wedges/splitters) and push block need to be assembled on a solid structure, an I beam is most common but a box beam could be used. Has to be stiff enough to resist twisting. Then the things that make it easier/more fun to use can be added on after the initial splitter works. A larger table and log lift or conveyor or chute can be added as needed. Good luck.