Bought a Countyline 25-ton splitter in 2017 (that is a Tractor Supply brand) and the control valve has not been working properly but main thing, it began leaking at top of control valve. On the attached image, noticed hydraulic oil at the very top of the nut on top the entire control valve assembly. This pic is of the control valve assembly; you can't see the lever that you use to split wood, it's at the bottom of all that. Ok, so, I immediately thought that there is likely an 0-ring in there. You can see that there are two bolts and they have an allen-head top. I removed those and did find a flat rubber ring. I went to a specialty shop in the big city that is for bearings and all things hydraulic. Upon seeing, the clerk immediately said he could not help. I said well where the heck can I find something like this if you guys don't sell it? He might have said something about needing to order a "kit." But then he said hold on and he grabbed a baggie that is full of various o-rings. Dug around in there and found a flat rubber ring close to the size I need and just gave it to me. He then made a comment that this flat ring is a "keeper" or something, not sure of the term he used, maybe "backing" or "holder" but point is he said there is usually an o-ring under that flat ring. I came back and yep, I put my finger in there and sure enough, found an o-ring. Ok, so, they both look fine to me. How do you know if an o-ring is bad if it's not worn or broken? The other thing... when I view the parts diagram for this splitter, it does NOT show anything INSIDE the entire control valve. There is no breakdown inside that! Huh? But I can see that there are several parts since I took it apart. There is a collar and inside the collar is a spring. If I remove that top nut, there's probably more parts in there. Do you think this is the way it is... that you are just expected to buy the entire control valve? That's $100 or so. An o-ring is pennies. (If that is the problem.) A spring might be a few dollars but not $100! Just hoping someone has insight, as I just need it fixed because I have several firewood orders and I will pay the $100 but if it's something stupid simple, I will feel a fool buying an entire valve if not necessary. An entire control valve looks like this (I cannot find a link for a Countyline control valve but Tractor Supply does have some in stock because I saw them on the shelf) -- https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200578559_200578559?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hydraulics > Hydraulic Valves > Control Valves&utm_campaign=NorTrac&utm_content=27366&gclid=CjwKCAiAksyNBhAPEiwAlDBeLKR06v81kT3W2zx57lz-If4j8DMaYRNlfNLwN7X5m79bYYEi-Zi-nBoC5l4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
On some o-rings you can’t tell by looking. If it’s leaking replace it. In most cases if an o-ring is the seal there is a backer ring to hold it in place and stabilize it. When replacing the o-ring it must be exact. Metric are different than sae and are not interchangeable. I have four different o-ring kits. SAE, Metric, Cat and Komatsu. They all are different to some extent. Mike in Okla
Yes, but that's just it... I tried. I went to a place that everybody goes to for this type of thing. I am surprised that we can't just match up the flat ring seal and also the o-ring to try it for an easy fix. I would assume that it is possible that this is all that is wrong. OTOH, why can't I just order these rings? Note from the OP that I report that the parts diagram does NOT break down anything inside the control valve apparatus. As for the rest of the splitter, they DO show some o-ring parts here and there, so, I can't understand why they don't show parts inside the control valve. All I did was take out two allen-head bolts to gain access to these o-rings and also the spring. It appears to me that this is just more par-for-the-course these days... they force us to buy the entire assembly? I asked a local handyman/mechanic guy here just now and he said this is the way it is. But he also said I could go to a certain specialty shop in the big city but I can't imagine why they would have these 0-rings when the first place didn't. The first place is a big place, been here for decades. I also had to replace my return hydraulic hose (a hole got rubbed in it... this is what started my latest problems with this splitter) and that is where I bought it. (At that time, I did not have a leak other than the return hydraulic hose.)
I think it very well might be! I have not found a parts diagram like that, including in my owner's manual and what Tractor Supply had in their computer! Do you think that is for a Countyline 25-ton? It seems it would be part 16 but that looks like only one o-ring. And I am not sure what "9**" means or signifies.
Ok well the website for that picture is a disaster maybe you can find it on the computer I can’t do it on my phone County Line 22 Ton Log Splitter Parts And it says for the 22 ton but they also have 25 on there. Chance they use the same valve too
The valve is a different manufacturer than the splitter. Look it up separately as you already did apparently. County Line or whoever just buys it as an assembly & doesn't bother listing parts for it. Valve is likely a Chinese part & may contain pretty standard parts as they often simply steal someone else's design & copy it. If you can narrow down the original you're way more apt to be able to get parts. Other option is to buy the new one & have the other rebuilt as a spare.
I'm sure they use the same valve for all their splitters. I have their 40 ton model and I bet I have the same control valve. It's part number 40002 according to my manual....and it too only lists the part number for the whole shabang. The joys of buying Chinese stuff. If you find out any more, update this post, as I'm sure I will eventually be in the same boat you are in.
A problem is that I really do not know what is wrong with it. An o-ring was just a guess. So you mention rebuilt. Do you think I could get this one rebuilt? What type of shop would do that, if so? I guess another thing would be that if somebody could rebuild this one, it would mean that parts are available! But again, I dunno what is wrong with it. If I could get this one rebuilt, I'd probably just buy a new one and keep or sell the rebuild. Hmmm... Geoff C posted a question about a link he was having trouble with. I figured out the company site and went there and this looks like my control valve or one that looks very much like it... Log Splitter Valve and Accessories by Energy® Manufacturing Company, Inc. It shows a Seal Kit for $15.04, part 0A007238. Anyone think it's worth a shot buying and replacing these rings? The problem I was having is the splitter, once it hit bottom, it travels upward (I am in sitting position, it's in vertical mode) and once it reaches 16" or more I hit that lever to stop it. Then I'd put another piece of wood in there and hit the lever to split it, etc etc. Except that once it moves upward, it won't stop until it reaches the top. So you waste time waiting for full travel. Also once it hits top, I have to hit the lever (usually) more than once to get it to start down again. There is an adjustment for such behavior, I think it is loosening or tightening the top nut. Anyway, it was doing that. Then the return line sprung a leak from rubbing on the frame (replaced it last year). I again replaced this return hose a few days ago and started splitting again and within no time, noticed the leak at the top nut.
I would think a seal kit would do it. Yes the detent is adjustable tighter or looser. That valve isn't real complicated. As to time wasted on the cycle, just put a stop on the beam to kick the return off sooner. That simply works on resistance, I use a 2X6" cut to length on my yard works splitter. All it has to do is stop the ram on the return stroke.
Your valve pictured does not appear to be an Energy brand valve. Your valve appears to have a plastic cover at the end, which Energy valves does not have. Your valve is a Made in China import.
I agree, no way did they put a quality USA made control valve on the Chinese splitters we have. You are right, we have plastic covers on the adjustment. Plus there is no adjustment on this one.
Ahhh the joys of chinesium. It's nice when units have components from known suppliers, like Energy, but china does Chinese things. It's possible that the Chinese valve takes the safer seal kit as the energy unit, but there's only 1 way to find out.
As I stated above, they steal designs & replicate them cheaply. If it were me I'd buy a decent quality valve, install & be done with it.
1 Spool Prince LS-3000-1 Log Splitter Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com MAde in the US.
I agree with this! Procure a quality US made valve with a known rebuild kit available for it. Then at least you will know you can rebuild it if it is ever necessary in the future.
Yes, buy the o ring kit for 15 bucks and try that. If that doesn’t work and you can’t find anything else get a new valve.
Did you call TSC customer service? I know yours is out of warranty like ours. They replaced our valve when the detent stopped working, under warranty. I just had to buy a complete seal kit for the big cylinder...
