Stump Height?

I dont fell a lot of trees but when i do i usually will figure on cutting a 16" round off the stump after. Sometimes ill go lower say on a leaner, smaller tree etc. What is your MO for this FHC? Is there a standard rule of thumb?
I know on lot clearing its left taller to be pulled out easier with an excavator.

 

Terrain always dictates the mission, but my normal split is 18", so I'll cut about 36" off the ground (easier on my back) and since I'm not bent all the way over, it makes for an easier expeditious escape should it be necessary. Once the tree is down, I'll go back and stump it, cut in half and call it a day.

Its an extra cut, but I like making chips, so I consider that a bonus...

 

If I know the stump won’t be mechanically removed the. I flush cut a low as I can. Cutting to drop the tree will be just a few inches above that. Unless it’s starting to rot. Then it’s above the rot in the healthy wood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

When used to cut a bunch of hazard trees at work, I always cut at whatever was comfortable working height, assuming that was an option for that tree (no obstacles that couldn't be removed, rot, holes, metal etc). Then if stump height was an issue, we could lower it if we wanted. To me, firewood length would never come into the equation..the stump can be lowered and made into firewood no matter what the height is, even if it's a couple of shorties. Now if I were cutting for usable logs, that would be a bit different story to get max log.

 

When in the mountains on national forest land I cut them down to about a 12" stump. Also the top of the stump is suppose to be flat with no sharp peaks pointing upward.
So a conventional face cut works for that.

 

Can’t say I’ve ever actually measured the stump but I do try to get two pieces above for the felling cut. Bad back, bum leg I like standing for the fall for maximum agility. I’ve noticed I really should measure first

 

The older I get, the slower I move so now if possible I try to get far enough up the tree so I don’t have to get on the ground to do the cut. Can always cut the stump off later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That's a good question, I never really thought about leaving the stump a certain height, I just try to cut as low as I can unless I am cutting on someone else's property then I ask how tall they want the stump left.

 

Waist high to chest high felling cut, then flush cut the stump. Safest/easiest on the back height unless otherwise dictated. Lumber log or excavator removal.

 

I've been doing 16-18" up from where the flush cut will be, but I will start doing the waist height cuts for the reasons you mention.

I cut for firewood, but my buddy is cutting for lumber, so I'll need to adjust as he wants to get as much log length as possible.

 

36" or so then Ill cut it flush later if its being ground and not removed by an excavator.

 

working height is about chest high for felling cut. I then go back and cut the stump

 

I too try give myself about one round to "stump" cut down to. Now that I've switched to 20-24" stove length, I do that bottom piece @ about 18-20".

 

I like to be on my feet not my knees when dropping trees. I cut high in case of things going south and they do. Cut enough trees mishaps will happen. Most times I can get two 16 inch cuts off the stump. Or one 16 and one ugly.

 

when did you start that Jason? I noticed the longer chestnut oak rounds from your recent cutting. What was the old length?

 

My old Bakers took a 16" piece. This new Englands furnace can take a 24" loaded front to back. I switched to about 20-22" on that big black locust. Then when Tony wanted me to cut the oak in lengths to get it out faster, I decided to do 48" so I could just buck in 1/2. Don't think it's going to stick as a 24" split is a pretty heavy piece of wood. I think it's going to end up @ 20-22" max. I've even considered loading it L to R but it's about 15" and that's a bit too small for my preference.

 

For someone as tall as you, I'd use the bore cut method on one knee, set a wedge in each side, then cut the trigger from a standing position at 45 degrees from the tree. You can easily cut the trigger with the bar tip & get away from the tree. The bit of angle on the trigger cut won't affect cordage much if at all.

 

I cut 18” to 20” off the ground. Then I cut the stump flush with the ground, so I can drive over it. Or so I don’t trip over it and break my neck in the snow

 

Interesting. I'll have to try that. Thanks AC!