When bucking large logs (36" - 48") what methods are you using. I have a large Maple which is 38" and 10' long to buck into 16" rounds. So I was wondering how to roll that log after making the top cuts, with no power equipment, just hand tools. My thoughts were to use a chain hooked to the log with the hook hooked to make the log roll when pulling with my truck. I"m open to any suggestion you all may have.
Use a Log peavy or a Cant hook. Provides major leverage. And remember cutting large diameter logs requires more skill in lining up your cuts, and any deficiencies in your chain will be multiplied. IE: if it's pulling to one side that is pretty much unacceptable. Others here will give more and better advice
tamarack - Forgot to mention that I tried the Log Peavy and could not budge the log, that's when I came up with the chain idea, so I will it a try tomorrow.
I process a lot of big 8-10’ oak logs and all I use is a cant. Some require extra effort to roll and different angles of attack, but I get em rolled. Normally I get a round or two cut off to decrease weight some. If you can’t get a round cut off without grounding your saw, drive in some wedges and cut a little more. A cant hook will break off pieces that still have a small tab still holding, if the wedge doesn’t break it first.
Definitely a cant hook. I don’t venture into the brush without it. For the sizes of logs you describe i’d get a 5 footer. I like Logrite
Another technique I use on big mothers that may be sunk in the ground. I’ll grab a chunk of wood to kick under the log when I get it to roll a bit, so it doesn’t roll completely back into the swell. Repeat procedure until log is out of the swell and can be turned. Sometimes rolling requires a leg press with lever on my shoulder, sometimes I’m both feet on the log, both hands on the lever and weight hanging toward the direction I want it to roll.
A cant/peavey but those are limited to smaller diameter logs. A lever either a 2x4, 2x6 etc or one of those heavy steel pry bars. I used a clothesline hook attached to the log and the come-a-long hooked to my bumper to roll a log that wouldnt budge. Worked like a charm. Here's the link. Ive Come a Long Way in my Hoarding Career!
That's what I was thinking, but using a chain instead of the come a long. I need to hook the chain so the log will roll as I pull forward.
I always used Chud 's method. Cut as far through as you can, drive in a wedge, a splitting wedge works well here usually. Break the round off with the cant hook, split it small enough to load, rinse & repeat. I'm fortunate to have tractors & equipment now. Rolling it with truck & a chain will work fine except for getting the chain under it, that's a lot of work if the log's on flat ground or sunk in.
I've sawn on logs so big and so deep in the woods I had no choice but to sneak up slowly and finish the buck, maybe hitting a little dirt. Wedges in the top so they don't lock together, then noodle in 1/2 so they fall apart. If they aren't noodled and fall flat, you're kinda in a pickle, unless you're the hand splittin' type. Which I ain't. I prefer to do the noodle cut first if I can. And this is talking wood too big to use a cant hook.
I have also sort of wrapped a chain on a corner (when can't get chain under log) then pulled with light equipment or even a come a long to tug it (this can work when you can't get heavy equipment in or don't have any). This will partially roll the log while also twisting it which make leverage work for you. Many times I've done this then finished with a cant hook.
Log dog/Raft Dog/ Hammerhead Spike. Drive them in with a big hammer. campinspecter uses them to pull logs out of the piles and to lift rounds onto his splitter with a hoist. (Although they aren't recommended for lifting)
above suggestions are all great! I would try to cut log in half after making cuts. Work cut from both sides . Easier to deal with half the weight
I’ve been in the same situation a few times rusty ranger 44 . And I don’t have big equipment either. Like many said above drive a wedge in so your bar doesn’t pinch and see if you can get a few rounds off without grounding your chain. If that’s not possible I do what Backwoods Savage said and hook a chain toward one end off the log and pull with truck, the log will usually twist and turn enough to get through. Make sure you use wedge again if needed. Not much worse then getting a long bar pinch!
Let’s us know what techniques you used and how it worked for you. Tons of nice good splits on those huge rounds!
Dakota - I was unable to get a chain under the log so I was able to drive the hook from my peavy into the log and attach a chain which was connected to my truck. The first pull had the tires spinning, so had to use 4 wheel drive to roll that log. With a large patch of mud exposed, used an axe to clean off so I could complete my cuts. I"m not to sure what kind of maple this log is, but my wedges would not stick. Therefore those rounds were noodled into wedges.
After you roll the log, slip your bar through the cut you already have, and up cut to get nice smooth cut rounds. You still want to clean off as much dirt as you reasonably can, but it will be easier on the chain, than cutting into the dirt, using wedges can still be a good idea, but I rarely need them unless the log is on a hump, and the ends are pulling down Doug
Husky Man - Totally agree on cleaning as much dirt and mud from the bark after a log roll. I usually use a axe or hatchet to remove as much bark filled dirt down to the wood layer. That really saves the chain. As for the wedges some situations require them, some do not. I guess it depends as how the log is laying.
