Husqvarna 372xp Leaking Oil + Stihl BG55 Blower

Tree guy brought over a Husky 372xp that is puking bar oil all over the place. He also brought with him a Stihl BG55 blower whose choke switch keeps flapping around and 2 seconds after you hit the gas it slips into choke and kills the engine.

Started with the blower and when I took it apart I could see why this was happening. What an absolute garbage cheap design they have for the choke. It's two pieces of plastic linked together by a square hole and matching peg, but held tight only by one of those absolute cheap azz metal washers with teeth in it.

I figured if I replaced the lever mechanism and the washer, it would eventually just happen again so I decided to drill it out. Went with a 1/8" bit and that left plenty of meat on the square peg. Home Depot near me did not have #5 (1/8") screws so I went with 3mm, 2 washers, and a nut.

Worked awesome. The switch is nice and stiff now with a drop of loctite blue and it ain't going anywhere as long as nobody slams it. He's going to use this at his house and I told him as much. There was some wear on the exposed part of the lever and I just can't get over how bad this design is.



I'll probably order a spark plug for this unit although it didn't look that bad.



CRAP DESIGN!



That black tab that is supposed to hold the lever in the RUN position is not big enough and actually wore a groove into the orange lever.


You can see the groove here.



Ended up just slicing the peg off flush with the square peg part of the lever.



All fixed



Part 2 coming up for the Husky.

 

Stihl BG55 videos.

Part 1.



Part 2



Part 3

 

Husky 372xp

So this thing had oil leaking out the flywheel side, all over the clutch area, all over my garage. It's probably a ripped hose but I can't do anything until I order the clutch removal tool.

Here are some pics.

Needs a new 3/8" 7T rim sprocket. Old one is shot. Slight damage to the case protector shield at the bar mounting studs but I can just trim it clean and leave it. Haven't pulled the spark plug yet but could probably use one.

 

Was gonna order from here for $15.99.

Clutch Removal Tool for Husqvarna 362, 365, 371, 372, 570, 575, 576

That is a different part number than what the service manual says. Manual says 502 52 22-01.

Can get that on Amazon here for $19.18.

 

Hyway aftermarket spur sprocket. $18.38.

Sprocket rim, drum & bearing 3/8 7 tooth fits Husqvarna 362, 365, 371, 372, 570, 575

 

The drum should be replaced no? The rim sprocket looked like it was sitting in there fine but the teeth of the drum are rounded off a little.

Hm.

Rim sprocket $9.32 on Amazon.

 

The drum is fine as long as it doesn’t wobble back-and-forth on the bearing when it’s in place. Don’t replace it with that type spur sprocket you have shown, as that’s more for a homeowner set up. I wouldn’t use an aftermarket replacement drum anyway, unless it was an Oregon

 

Got it. I looked up the Oregon one and it has been discontinued. I ordered the just the rim sprocket and the tool from HLsproparts. I forgot to check the crankshaft wobble. Will do so now. I saw some people post that they had to use some kind of sealant to plug up leaks on the oiling system of this saw. Is that normal???

 

The number is probably superseded to a new one. I am 100% certain it’s still available. But there’s no need to replace it if it’s relatively snug once it’s in place. The rim sprocket itself is the same as any 70cc and up Stihl as well. So you can get them at the dealer if you want

The oil leak just depends on what’s wrong with it. There’s a brass tube that comes out of the top and that could be cracked or worn through. The only other connection is where the hose meets the tank. If I have one apart, I degrease everything and put sealer on the hose and the pump when I put them back together

 

Drum fits snug and it looks like it relatively new metal needle bearing in there so yeah I'll just replace the rim sprocket then. Thanks.

What kind of sealer do you use? I have a tube of automotive RTV gasket sealer. Will that work? Or do you suggest something else? Looks like I might be busy fixing this guy's stuff going forward heh heh.

 

Yeah that’ll work. Just use it sparingly. And make sure there’s absolutely no oil on the case, pump, or hose

 

Got it. Thank you for your help as usual.

 

Took that case protector shield off and the brass part looks good. Saw is not leaking and I've had it flipped on both sides for a while now. Makes me think it's near the oil pump - worm gear, pickup line, or output line.

This is what it looked like before cleaning up.

 

How’s the case gasket look?

Wiggle that crank… these saws are worse than 1125s for bearing problems. Normally there are idle issues, though.
+1 on everything Huskihl said.

 

Clutch tool from ebay is what I use. It’s the socket style that works in an impact or conventional socket with breaker bar.

 

I did wiggle it and it is sturdy. No movement at all. Case gasket looks ok so far. As I said no leaks after it was pouring all over the place when he first brought the saw over. Not sure if he had tried to run it right before he brought it over.

I haven't tried to start it yet. I just wanted to take a look first and see if there was anything obvious that could be fixed. What surprised me was that there were several spots on the flywheel side where there were pockets of bar oil.

Yeah the one I ordered was $16 so it's probably pretty similar. Looks exactly as you describe. Do you really need a breaker bar to break it loose? I haven't needed one yet but maybe those big boy saws (i.e. this one) require more force?

 

Some saws (see: junk cases that have been run hard and long), yes. 99% of the time I use an impact against compression to remove clutches.

 

As oppposed to using a piston stop you mean? Do you fill the jug with fuel or oil from the spark plug hole?

 

I do have a couple clutch removal tools but oddly not for a Husky

for that c spring clutch I block the piston and use a screw dribbler

 

I’m against hard piston stops, yes. I use rope but typically only when torquing things down (fw nut and clutch). For removals, I use an impact against compression (no added oil) most of the time. I converted to this method after using rope and sockets/extension for a few years.