In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Drilling holes in Railroad Ties

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by stuckinthemuck, Oct 5, 2021.

  1. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    I’m interested in drilling holes in traditional creosote impregnated railroad times. The ties are going to be used as a base for a canopy and will receive 1 1/2” galvanized steel tubing. I’m planning to just drill deep enough for the tubing to sit securely so maybe 1-2” deep. My question is what is the best way to do this? I could use a spade bit, or a hole saw. I was thinking I might want to drill a small diameter hole all the way through to ensure the holes don’t hold water. Anyone have any experience with this or thoughts on the best way to do this? TIA..
     
  2. CoachSchaller

    CoachSchaller

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    When using the hole saw, there will be an uneven bit of wood where you break off the piece you want out. If you use a spade, it will be flat on bottom.
     
  3. buzz-saw

    buzz-saw

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    A 1 1/2 inch hole in a railroad tie is going to be rough on equipment. I would think a spade bit or a forstner bit to get a flat bottom and then the through hole you had mentioned after is probably a good idea.
    Hang on tight or you might be spinning around like you are on a carnival ride.
     
  4. MikeInMa

    MikeInMa

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    I suppose you could start with a small diameter bit, and work up to using larger and larger diameter bits. No real experience here, however
     
  5. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    I don’t think I can do that with a spade bit as the pilot hole is needed to keep the bit centered. Once you drill a hole larger than the pilot hole, a larger spade but becomes useless..
     
  6. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    Thanks.. haven’t used a forstner bit before.. I figured that whatever I use will be wrecked by the end. I need to drill 8 holes.. also thought about making a jig and using a router bit, but I think it would have to be a carbide blade on the bit to avoid rapid dulling..
     
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  7. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Are these used ties? If so you will be hard pressed to get 8 holes out of a Forstner bit...that's the right tool for this job though, other than the durability issue.
    Might be able to use a concrete coring bit (diamond) to do it...you can rent the stuff to do this at the local tool rental place...not totally convinced that these bits will cut the wood very well though.
     
  8. WinonaRail

    WinonaRail

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    The only helpful advice I can offer is make sure there isn't a train coming while you're drilling. :rofl: :lol: I'll show myself out now.
     
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  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Here ya go...this will do it.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-1-2-in-Diamond-Plus-Hole-Saw-49-56-5630/204999994
    By the way, I have done the same thing as you are planning (install pipe in wood) and used a hole saw to make the hole...the bits cut a groove that is wider than you would expect (due to not being perfectly round) and I had almost the perfect hole to shove sch 40 galv. pipe in the hole (1.5" IIRC) Oh, and I just left the "plug" in place too.
     
  10. Eric Wanderweg

    Eric Wanderweg

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    Last summer I built a retaining wall from railroad ties, 3 tiers high. After laying the first course, I drilled 3/4" holes through in 3 spots in the tie, then pounded some long sections of rebar into the ground. For the following 2 courses I had to drill 3/8 diameter holes through each tie and pound a 3/8 x 12" nail through, nailing the ties together. I did all the drilling with spade bits. The drilling went alright, but I had to step up the hole size incrementally. First go through with 1/4, then 1/2, then 3/4, etc. You're going to need an electric drill with some serious torque. My battery operated Craftsman 19.2 volt cordless drill was useless in this application. I ended up borrowing an old Milwaukee corded drill from a buddy, which had what it took to do the job. The Milwaukee probably had the snot to drill a 3/4" hole with no pilot, but hanging on to the drill was another story. Also, I remember having to drill in an inch at a time, back it out, remove the chips, then go back in, repeating the process. The creosote in the wood makes for really sticky, mushy (and smelly) chips that like to bind up in the hole.
     
  11. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Like Eric, I too have used RR ties for retaining wall and flower bed border. I used a traditional long twist bit to drill down through them to anchor with rebar. The flower bed ones didn't get drilled completely through. I had no issues and it was just coated HSS bit. I think mine were 1/2 but I'd have to confirm.
     
  12. Lennyzx11

    Lennyzx11

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    Same way I did it. Buy 2 holesaws and borrow a good corded drill with 2nd handle.
    Back out frequently to dump chips.

    Why 2? You’re going to throw the first one away probably worn out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. lukem

    lukem

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    I would buy one of these and rent a low speed drill.

     
  14. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    Thanks for all the input. Yes. Used RR ties. Not currently attached to RR tracks. I’m going to give this a shot tomorrow. I have a Bosch corded drill with a second handle. Hopefully that’ll work.
     
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  15. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    I was going to mention the same, bought one of those for our previous bathroom, we put in porcelain tile, blew through a couple normal ones for the plumbing fixtures barely making a dent, the diamond tipped one went through fine.
     
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  16. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Great thread, great advice as usual, demonstrating FHC experience and willingness to share these things. :thumbs:
    Hope you can update or start a new build thread stuckinthemuck. :yes: :ithappened:
     
  17. chris

    chris

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    A spur bit would work about the best- kinda looks like a forsetner but not a smooth ring on the side but teeth- If you look at a door lock installation kit that is the type I mean. Grit edged holesaws will just jam up and stop cutting. Good old auger bits are what we always used for big timber holes and for this are still the best item out there.
     
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  18. lukem

    lukem

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    Timber framers use auger bits. ;)
     
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  19. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Timber framers aren't working with wood that's full of creosote and cinders/slag though...my neighbor used to burn RR ties (not kidding) in his OWB and would be lucky to make one or two cuts with a new Stihl chain before it was dull, he finally bought "rescue chain" (carbide I think) and that worked OK...boy was I glad when the boiler was so gooped up that he tore it out and back to LP!
     
  20. lukem

    lukem

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    I've cut plenty of ties before and never had any trouble with them. They don't use cinders here....just white rock and/or crushed granite to bed the ties. I guess it depends a lot on where you get them.
     
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