Has anyone run this? I have an MS 250 Stihl with a .325 pitch and .063 kerf bar. 18 inch bar. Would switching to narrow kerf chain and bar make any real change ? I'm not looking to go to a shorter bar or mess with the engine. Would going to a low profile 3/8 be better? Great small saw but if it would make a big difference, I might try switching.
Kerf and groove width are not the same. Kerf is the width of material removed. Generally a reduction in kerf means a reduction in required power. Sorry I can't offer much information on what the performance gains would be.
Try running g a LP 3/8-.043 (picco) setup once. Less drag in the cut. It makes a difference on smaller cc saws for sure. All of my tophandle saws have been converted to picco with the exception of my Echo CS2511T's. They've been swapped to 14" 1/4-.043, and they are like fillet knives up in the tree.
OK so here is a question that I guess could be related to this. Lets say I have a chain that is .325 and .063 on the drive links , is a chain that is .325 and .050 on the drive links actually any thinner as far as kerf ? I know the drive links are not as thick but does that actually change the width of the actual cutting tooth or are they the same except for the thickness of the drivers? Haven't measured this myself but do have some chains that are the same except for the driver thickness , now I am wondering and guess I can get the calipers out when I get home tonight.
I think Duane(Pa) has some of the new n/k Still chain and loves it. If we are splitting hairs, being the same cutters with a little less difference spacing them apart, technically yes. But were talking .063 minus .050. So in the real world, no. I'd say with the same manufacturers .325 50 to .325 63 would be for all intense purposes the same. If we were fabricating or constructing something important, maybe... That answer the question? When you go to NK, picco or lo-pro, then it's time to break out the calipers because it'll be measurable in firewood.
That was my thought as well but did not measure it to actually see . I agree that with the difference being only .013 you will never notice a difference. I know the numbers are so little apart but was just wondering.
I use .325 nk chain on my Husky 350. It is a semi-chisel chain that I use when I cut wood that is old and sometimes decayed. It is used on all the jobs I don't want to run a good chisel chain on. It cuts well and is easy to sharpen. For lower hp saws, I think it helps for sure.
Correct me if I'm wrong here but .325 is the distance between pins on the chain.....the other number is the thickness (gauge) of the driver links....the .325 has nothing to do with the kerf. So you will see no real measurable difference between 3/8 or .325, where you WILL see a difference is going from .063 to .043 gauge..... That thinner gauge isn't readily available for long bar/chain combos because it isn't as strong as the thicker gauge chains.....you see the thinner gauge on bar/chain combos under the 20" length but I think there are some outfits overseas that sell longer combos (I'd like to try a longer picco setup for milling but I'm betting it'd fail quickly).
Thanks for all replies. I've still got several new chains for the saw. I shiuld wait until they're used up before doing anything else.
L to R. 3/8, 325 and 3/8 lopro. Without actually cutting wood, I have no way to further show width of kerf. But they are progressively larger to smaller l to r. Sorry, no 404 here. Those #’s don’t relate to kerf directly, just showing width of each cutter. All 050.
I know Stihl, at least on 33rm use all the same thickness in the link itself and only the driver tang steps down in thickness to fit the bar.
