And a little stub of brick, with 3 or 4 feet of ss sticking out, and probably braced off..... Lotsa options. Sca
I did a partial rebuild a few years back like that. Colonial house. 32' ladder fully extended on the end to do the work i couldnt from the roof. Not fun. Luckily it was a 5/12 pitch so easily walkable. I grossly underpriced the job too. House where i store my wood at my friends. I had my Estwing hammer resting on the top ledge. Ascended the ladder with a bucket of mortar and i knocked it down the void between the flue and the bricks. I chuckle thinking when will it be found.
I'll mention to check building codes. I had two chimneys at the last house. Clay lined brick up to the roof and just brick above. They needed re-pointing, but I hired a mason to tear it down to the roof, add clay tile to continue, and brick about 4' above roof. New flashing. The clay went over the top brick cap a few inches for a cap. He mentioned something about the chimney had to have a certain height requirement and dimensions had to be the same to top. Code may vary. I sealed ours with a masonry sealer in a pump sprayer every few years. buZZsaw BRAD , solid work ya did there.
I was checking a smoke shelf and damper plate for my brother and I reached behind the damper throat assembly and found and estwing mason's hammer on the spot. Handle was melted. Nice hammer though, a bit smaller than the one I had.
I’m not familiar with how it’s attached. Personally I’d think it’d be much easier and aesthetically pleasing just to rebuild and line it with flex pipe.
I think there are several companies that offer these...here's one...they just lag down the the top of the brick. Rock-Vent Transition Plate Another 6" Champion Masonry Transition Plate | Woodland Direct
At $200 I can’t see the worth in this particular situation. As fishingpol suggested,,,building codes. I don’t think they like to see a single wall junction near the roofline. Don’t think There’s any specific code aGainst it because it’s such an unusual condition. Think chimney fire and single wall near a shingled roof. I wouldn’t be happy with it. Then there’s the flashing issue. Chimney will still need to be sealed against the roof in some fashion. I’m just not seeinG any Good reason to do it. take chimney down to roof, build it back up. Drop a liner down it, done
My last look at the chimney, with new roof and flashing, it doesn't even need to be taken down as far as the roofline. The first few courses up are solid. I think a couple feet of ss sticking out the top will garner more attention than needed.... Sca
Our house chimney was block and flue tiles, with red brick above the roofline. The oil furnace and propane water heater shares this single flue. The wood stove had it's own flue. A few years ago, the chimney sweep noted the flue tiles were shifting. So, a stainless steel flue went in. It doesn't extend beyond the roof chimney brick. It has a cap on it.
Stellar job buZZsaw BRAD !!! Holy cow I need you to come over and help me do mine! Sirchopsalot you look like you have a 12/12 pitch like me - cape cod, yes? I got up to my roof using a 17' little giant ladder and then brought up my 16' extension ladder unextended and laid it right on the 12/12 area to get to the top of my bathroom so that I could spray sodium percarbonate (i.e. Oxyclean) to kill the moss. I will be needing to repoint my chimney sooner rather than later. This is the lawn guy's worker I hired to get up there to install the zinc strips to prevent future moss buildup. He's on the garage which is also 12/12. He was roped up in a harness with a rope tied to a nearby tree. Interested to see what you end up doing!
Very common in New England/Northern climate chimneys. If the chimney is a not used fireplace then freeze/thaw damage will be worse as it doesnt get warmed by fire or furnace. If the bricks are loose, it can be a partial rebuild using the old bricks. Ive done many of these as well. Problem with pointing is it only goes part way in and really doesnt strengthen the bond if its broken. One trick to check this is "knock" on the bricks. I use my knuckles, but a gentle tap with a hammer works too. Lower courses that are solid will have more of a thud, where as the loose courses wont. The difference in sound is very distinct. What year was the house built and is that chimney part of it? Life expectancy of an average chimney is 75 years IME as a professional. The pics that i posted the first chimney was on a 100 year old house, and it had been repointed. Second one was house from the 1950's.
Ive installed those and the few times they didnt work. One lady was rather POed at me. The theory behind it is very true. How recent was that done LOTF?
Well the instructions tell you that you still need to kill the existing moss...which is critical. So the zinc or copper strips will prevent new spores from growing but won't be strong enough to kill an established plant. I initially tried to use sodium hydroxide but my problem was so severe I may e didn't leave it on long enough or diluted it too much or both. What does work 100% guaranteed is to mix up some oxiclean. While it is only about 50% sodium percarbonate it is amazing. One treatment. No rinse necessary. Once mixed with water releases hydrogen peroxide which kills everything once and for all. The old growths turn brown after a day and if doing it for pay I'd suggest going back to brush off the dead remnant. Otherwise just spray it and forget it. The rains will naturally wash it away. I can't stress how awesome oxiclean worked. Every single spore/plant was killed. It will also get rid of those black streaks that are mold growth. Basically it saved you from putting on a new roof that you didn't need. I think I posted about it elsewhere but just in case here are some pics. I used a Scott's pump sprayer. Slow and a little annoying but worked. I've since used oxiclean on my back flagstone patio (never been cleaner),y flat paver brick parking spot (cleaned off all the oil stains from working on the cars), my tile kitchen floor, and the shower/bathtub. Much better than bleach, cleans better, not toxic to smell, and less toxic. Here's a short video showing me applying it on the garage roof. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZTGqmvGW7gsr93u67
I just mixed it according to the instructions on the Oxiclean box. Yes, I am weird. I took a picture of the box back when I did it. And I also just found a few pics taken Sep-7 of what it looks like two weeks after the application. No scrubbing or brushing.
Just be *extremely* cautious and plan your escape route. I.e. once you spray it it will dribble down and that stuff makes everything super duper slippery. Like ice skating on glass slippery. I did the steep part and then quickly got down to the ladder and did the lower slope part while standing on the ladder instead of standing on the lower slope part. If I had stood on the lower slope part I would have slipped right off the roof.
