So in scrounging, I'm on the look out for things I need, other than cordwood. Lumber to repurpose for example. But today I came across a source of clean hydraulic oil. Used, but generally clean. I got to thinking that that might replace bar oil..perhaps for winter use. What I know of bar oil properties is it's stickyness, whatever viscosity, and then it's burnability. Any thoughts experiences on bar oil alternatives? Sca
I've used it, but, generally, mix it by supplementing it with a good brand of sticky bar oil. About 40% hydraulic and 60% good ole, sticky bar oil.
Yes, use real bar oil & cut it with 10% cheap atf in the winter. Anything else is substandard, filthy dirty or grows mold when it sits, i.e. canola oil. Run real bar oil & save your bars & chains. My opinion/experience only. Edit: If you have an older Diesel engine save that hydraulic & mix it at about 10% to the ulsd modern fuel as pump & injector lube. Works great for that.
I've heard of people using hydro oil for b&c oil. Also vegetable, canola oil, and motor oil too. I've never had to use any of these though.
Don't unless it's a true emergency. Only thing I've subbed that worked well was 75W140 gear oil. It's likely better than bar oil, but about 2X cost.
Why? Just why? At the end of the day bar oil isn’t that expensive and if you’re using 100’s of gallons you should be making good money and bar oil should be a very small percentage of your overhead.
I use full synthetic or semi synthetic motor oil for bar oil. It lubes SOOO much better than bar oil ! It does sling off a little more, but it pumps real easy in the cold. I generally try to find some on sale or @ Costco. In the summer, bar oil is fine. But generally I don't do much cutting in the summer. If I had a source of real cheap/free hyd oil. I'de run it in the lube tank on my band mill. I use used synthetic motor oil as a general purpose lube on the mill. The travel/power feed chain , log dogs and lots of turn screws to keep moving freely. I change motor oil in the generator every 100 hours or less. It only holds 14 oz. But it adds up. And the vehicles. I get a good amount of used motor oil.
Nope ; not me. I will stick with bar oil. Even cheap bar oil rather that used hydro oil. I can buy good bar oil for under 10 dollars a gallon and a gallon cuts a pretty decent amount of wood so I myself wouldn't even consider anything else. But that's just me. Others might have different thoughts and that's just fine too but I spent good money on good saws and to try and save a few bucks that way just isn't my thing.
I had an old 12 valve once, with the idea I'd make my own fuel. Never materialized as we were apartment dwellers at the time, and i figured they'd frown on fuel making in my basement. But someday. Sca
Alternatives do not have a tackifier to help it stick to chain. Vast majority flings right off the tip, then where it's needed most, it's lacking compared to stuff designed for saw use. The more tack, the less oil you have to pump. Most saws today don't flow enough as is. It's your equipment so... I've milled with Mobil DTE. Roached a nice 37" Windsor bar. I learned the hard way.
If it's a continuous source consider a waste oil burner. Otherwise like was said a gallon of bar oil cuts a lot of wood. And the cost of fixing a saw buys a lot of bar oil.
Bingo! I found a almost full 55 gallon drum of synthetic diff oil at a auction for 10 bucks. Stuff is great. Flows beautifully in -20 weather. I agree, there is no need to use anything but bar oil, if you are only cutting a dozen cord or so of firewood a year. If you are a faller however, you need to keep overhead down as much as possible right now.
I get bar oil for about $14 for 2 gallons. But that said, I would consider cutting it with something cheaper if I had it, especially for winter. I'd start with maybe 3 parts bar oil to 1 part of the other, and work from there. I'm not cheap, I am frugal.