Stihl 034 Super AV EQ

When you have finished with the vinegar it makes a decent weed killer.

 

I know this is sort of blasphemy but will it kill black locust saplings that pop up everywhere???

Thanks for that. I was just thinking what I should do with the leftover vinegar.

 

Got my oem worm screw, crank bearings, seals, and gaskets. Just waiting for the bearing tool to arrive now.

 

New Meteor replacement 48mm piston arrived. Looks like it is the same exact size as the original. Also got 2 impulse lines, some m4x12 screws (aftermarket). Piston came with rings, 2 circlips, and the sleeve for the rod.

Question - I had to tap out the original sleeve that connects the piston to the rod gently using a socket extension. Is that normal??

 

Yep, that’s called a wrist pin.

 

The Cross impulse line… I probably wouldn’t use AM line. It should be ok until you can source OEM line, though.

 

I feel like I can snip the part that's ripped off of the original line and there will still be enough slack that it doesn't pinch. Haven't tried yet but maybe it will work.

 

102mm is needed to get over both nipples.

Need a section of line? I can send ya a piece in a common envelope, I think.

 

Stihl’s fuel line is the best. I’ve tried a variety of others (Echo and OEM Husky lines are good), but Stihl lines hold up better than other types.

 

I appreciate the offer. I will try the snip method and let you know how it goes first.

 

Tangential update with regards to the rusty tools. Took most of them out. They were done.

Hatchet head is a Norlund. Don't know anything about them.



Still waiting for case splitter tool to arrive.

 

According to this page the hatchet looks like their Tomahawk version. 2lb w/ 24" handle.

Norlund Co.

 

I mixed in some ice melt salt today with the vinegar and sprayed it all over...........POISON IVY! I was grabbing fire pit wood to trade for hay bales and almost touched it. I was like........."Uh........this looks like poison ivy" and the picture this app confirmed it.

 

Screwloose That vinegar worked amazingly well holy crap. I applied it yesterday at 5pm and it has basically killed off the poison ivy.

I missed a few spots, will hit it tomorrow again.

Thanks so much for your suggestion.

 

Well then. Just got the splitting tool. Took out two punch pins, and as I got the case apart the clutch side ball bearings all fell out onto the workbench.

I think the bearings were shot....just a wild guess holy cow.

Erm.......looks like I have more issues now. The clutch side bearings were so disintegrated that the inner part of the bearing is still on the crankshaft. That's why the ball bearings just fell out I'm guessing.

I need new AV bushings - I might as well replace all 3. The front most one was ripped as you can see in one of the pics below.

So I have a few questions huskihl and BuckthornBonnie if you have a moment.......

1. Do I need a new crankshaft?
2. If not, how do I get that inner bearing part off the crankshaft?

Ball bearings from clutch side



Seal only on clutch side bearing plus outer shell.



Here's the inner shell of the clutch side bearing still on the crankshaft.



Flywheel side



I used that newly acquired deadblow hammer to get the clutch side bearing off. Took about 10 strokes.



Flywheel side crankshaft closeup



Clutch side crankshaft close up.



Flywheel side bearings. Intact but a bit "crunchy" upon rotation.



Another angle of the clutch side bearings inner part still on the crankshaft.



Anyone know where this plastic washer goes? It fell out and I have no idea.



Broken AV grommet



FUN TIMES AHEAD FOR ME.

 

The crank should be fine.

The inner race of the bearing can be removed a few different ways. I use either a bearing puller or a modified two-jaw puller. I also gently heat the race while shielding the needle bearings of the crank. This step isn’t necessary.

I don’t know if you can put the bearing back together and get a better pulling surface. Unlikely… that trick usually works when the outer race is stuck in the case.

The washer may be part of the 1125/06 AV bushing. Hard to say from the pics.

 

The fact that the bearing races are still tight to their surfaces is actually a good thing; the shaft isn’t worn and the cases won’t be wallowed.

I’ve also frozen a crank, put the bearing in the vise to where the lobes are free and the shaft can fall safely away, and tapped the shaft out of the race. You have options and I’m sure Kevin has another trick or two to consider.

 

Thank you. If I just put the stuck bearing into a vice and then tap it out with the deadblow? That should work, no? Do I need to freeze the crank? I don't know how I'm supposed to freeze just the crank and not the bearing race (the race is the inner part that's stuck on my shaft, right? That sounds dirty for some reason).

 

Is it normal for the bearings to fall apart like that btw? I'm pretty sure it's because the oiler was hosed and the previous user continued to run it even though the bar wasn't getting any oil.

 

You can, but I always try to use heat differential when possible for interference fits.

Know anyone with a puller?

An option I would consider would be to put the shaft with race intact in the freezer for a bit. Then, shield the big end bearing of the crank with foil or tin and carefully heat the race a touch. Clamp the bearing race in a vise and tap the shaft free.

You could also grind it and break it off with a chisel but… yeah… risky.