Hi Guys - broke down and got a super jolly. It arrived today. With much anticipation.... Trying to set it up and I've never seen such a crappy instruction manual. I have the hydraulic vice and no matter what I do, I can't get it to clamp down on my .050 chain. I tried putting oil in it, no luck. I thought maybe it had air in it, so I tried bleeding it, by opening up the screw, pulling down on the head, and tightening up the screw, then letting the handle up. then added more oil. That didn't do it. Also, can someone confirm for me that I should use the thinnest wheel on my .325 chain (I use a 3/16" file) and the 2nd thicker wheel on my 3/8" chain (use a 7/32 file) FINALLY, to top it off, I knocked the medium width wheel on the floor and broke the damm thing. Yeah, its been a good night so far. Can anyone recommend a good source for replacement wheels? I'm gonna go crack a beer now.
Hate to like this. Following along. I bought one a few months ago, but the instructions were so poor I haven’t had time to sit down and figure it all out yet.
It’s been awhile. I can’t remember how or where I put oil in mine. Seems like it didn’t need bled, just needed the head lowered a couple dozen times to get the air out. I’ve never bought a replacement wheel, but I see them on eBay. I haven’t tried many different brands, but I’ve been very pleased with the wheels that came with it. I would do a search for Tecomec 3/16 grinding wheel on eBay
Thanks Screwloose!! I'll PM ya with an address. Here is where my ignorance is showing... My .325 chain needs a 3/16" file, hence I would use the 3/16" grinding wheel. Makes sense. My 3/8" husky x-cut chain, needs a 7/32" file, but everything I'm see says to use the 3/16" wheel. So when it comes to sharpening a chain, is it not that big of a deal as to the file size/wheel size? OR, should I get a new 1/4" wheel and shape it to match a 7/32" file. OR is the the engineer in my working overtime and I'm making this more complicated that it needs to be and just sharpen the damm chain. Is it possible to do a square file with the Super Jolly?
Mine wouldn't clamp when I first got it, had to add a bit of oil and then get air out, worked fine since then. If you want to get better wheels that won't break, here is a great place to order them. Chainsaw Sharpening Wheels | Super Abrasive CBN
Hey Guys - Big shout out to Screwloose for sending me the grinding wheels that came with his Super Jolly. Also went an made the same modifications that he did in the "BEST GRINDER" thread. Made a world of difference in cleaning up the slop. Found a practice chain that was mostly used up and did some practice grinding to figure out the setup. Tried getting a profile picture, but phone didn't want to focus from that angle for some reason. Little bit of a burr on the top edge, but other than that, it looked ok. Needed to adjust my depth also as I was nicking the top plate, just a scootch.... Overall, now that I have the vise working (needed a SERIOUS air-bleed), had to take the piston off the vise and open it up, I'm pretty impressed with how this thing works. Gonna be a LOT faster sharpening the 32" loops..
Glad you like it. I like ours too. I'm running the CBN wheel, I do light taps down as I'm grinding and still get a burr on the top plate. I've found out that as soon as that chain hits wood, that burr is gone...
I use a CBN wheel as well and I love it. To keep from getting a burr I spin the wheel by hand and and move the chain forward until it just touches the slowly turning wheel. I find this way removes the minimum amount from the cutter and never leaves a burr.
It's trial and error. If a first you do not touch, raise the grinding to release the vice and then turn the screw just a hair and try again. It adds a minute or so to the sharpening time but gives better results in the long run.
Thanks...... That's kinda what I do, with the wheel sitting still. I must be adjusting it a bit to much...
I almost always get a burr even by using light taps, but holding the grinder head down at the bottom of the stroke for a few seconds usually either gets rid of it or makes it so I can wipe it off with one finger. And it doesn’t matter whether I’m doing the left or right teeth, so I quit worrying about it
I appreciate all the feedback guys . I've taken delivery of a Norwood PM14 chainsaw mill (still waiting on a couple of parts for it tho) and am going to modify a couple of standard chains to a ripping chain. Should be a lot of fun playing with the grinder and trying different things. Probably going to invest in a couple of CBN wheels as well. Not having to dress them I think will be a real advantage, especially for consistency on a ripping chain. Price is a little hard to swallow, but I won't have to worry about dropping a breaking them and looks like they more or less last forever
