Drive link count, variations?

I mentioned in a different thread, that I purchased a new Tsumura 32" lightweight bar for my 461. 32" bars normally take 105 drive links and this bar is no exception. It plainly states 105 DL. So, I mounted a Stihl chain, made up for me off of a roll, and it worked.

But, it's almost too big. And it takes up almost all of my chain adjustment. I had about 1-1/2 turns on the adjustment screw left and I would be bottomed out. I thought maybe they miscounted the drive links, but no, they are right, I counted them myself. So, I decided to try a chain with one less (104 DL) and had one made up. It fits fine, and put me about where I want to be on the adjuster screw, starting out on a new chain.

Has anyone else ran into that on longer bars? I guess with a long bar, it doesn't take much variance to add up; accumulative error I guess, the longer the chain the more it could vary. I may take back the first two chains which were made off of the same roll and have them remove a drive link from each chain. I am worried that with a little stretch, I will be completely out of adjustment.

 

Sprocket size?
Also i found that my 025 16" is a couple of drive links shorter than my ms260 16" either from the shape of the bar or distance between bar tail and the sprocket

 

I have a 22" Carlton bar (i know an oddball size, but it came with my used 361 i bought last Summer) Ive used this bar on all my .375 pitch saws (036, 361, 460, 500i) and notice on most it almost does the same...bottoms out the adjustment screw, especially the 500i which its on now. I have two chains for this bar and will keep this in mind when i get new chains which will be cut from a roll. 76 is the link count so ill get 75. As long as its in the adjustable range i dont see a problem. The chain will stretch when used of course. Great tip LM!

 

Number of drivers or a different bar profile.
Lay the two bars on top of each other and see if the profile is slightly different.

Some of the Stihl bars seem larger in the nose area than others. I really notice it on my MS250 , it just looks fat.

Compare a Husky Bar to a Stihl 16 inch and you can see a big difference between manufactures , after market could easily have a different profile compared to an OEM bar.

 

Yep, bar profile could make a difference. It seem like the bar manufacturer would take that into account, when designating the DL on the bar. But of course different saws, or maybe a 7 pin vs 8 pin sprocket would or should also make a difference.

 

I'm not sure an 8 pin would be optimal on the longer bars.

 

It happens when we start putting 8, 9+ pin sprockets on saws and making roller bars fit where they weren’t made for. Real pain to get loops custom sized but you don’t have many other options. If you foresee lots of chain use in your future, it’s pretty cost effective to buy by the roll and size your own. This may be even more true for you with a weird setup like you have.

 

Yep, I am only running the standard 7 pin that came on the saw, but the bar is of course not a Stihl, it's a Tsumura, but still calls for the 105 drive links which will work, however, I don't know, I might run out of travel if the chain stretches much.

What tools does it take and how much does it cost to get set up for splicing saw chain?

 

Depends on the quality of the breaker/spinner you buy. I recently found a real high quality old school Oregon set on fleabay for $150.



Then you have to get what’s called presets and straps, the piece you can use to attach two ends of chain together. I think I paid $10 for 10.
The Tecomec set of both runs for less than $125.

 

I have also had that happen on bars where it doesn’t exactly match up. On a 60” setup after things finally stretched I had to take two links list of it to get it right and have adjustment. Depending on the brand of chain they can also fit differently…some are prestretched more.

 

Thanks for the info. I have used chain breakers, etc on other types of roller chain, but never chainsaw chain, of course we used masterlinks or half links to splice them.

 

Usually if you buy a roll of chain it comes with the presets but you can also buy them separately for fixing or adjustments for existing chains. I think I paid about $125 or for my Tecomec breaker & spinner.

 

Is the Tecomec considered to be of good quality, compared to other options?

 

I started with the breaker spinner combo from harbor freight. It gits the job done, but don’t think of going into business with it. You can get the Stihl preset packs from the dealer. I think they are 9 sets to a pack. The hole in the rivet that slips into the chain link eye is bigger on stihls. So if you have Oregon chain or something else, you have to get Oregon presets.


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It has good reviews online & from reading on a couple other sites it was recommended. I believe that Tecomec makes the Oregon spinner/breakers just as they build the Oregon electric grinders.

 

Maybe be the space between the teeth. Going down a link somewhere a pair of adjacent teeth will be closer together?

 

Thanks for that tip. It stands to reason that different brands might be different, alright.

 

Interesting, good to know.

 

The Oregon seems to be more standard and Stihl running the odd ball. I’ve adjusted the length on Oregon, Carleton, husqvarna branded chain and they are all the same size.


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