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Harman P35i Distribution Blower Replacement

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by bigwalleye, Feb 21, 2021.

  1. bigwalleye

    bigwalleye

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    Noticed the distribution blower wasn’t as loud or blowing as hard as it used to. My insert is 10 years old this year. Did some research and some folks suggested the blower motor was going so I got a replacement in the mail.

    I may be unique in that my insert is in one side of of a double sided fireplace. Therefore I can access the back of the stove through the other side.

    Anyways, after going thru an entire set of ignition wrenches, I discovered the original distribution blower motor was held in via eight (8) 5/16” self tapping sheet metal screws. Using my x-ray vision and the closed end of a tiny wrench I was able to remove the 8 screws, pull the 2 connectors, and the blower motor was out.

    You ever have that feeling when it’s a real PIA to remove something that you wonder if you’ll be able to put it back the way you found it? I had that feeling. And I still do.

    I was able to fit the blower motor into place and even see the tiny holes were lined up based on light shining up thru and looking with one eye open thru just the right fan blades to see the hole. But no way - no how was I able to get any of the 8 4mmx70 by 10mm long (and when I say 10mm long I mean really short) started. I could barely hold one between my index and middle finger and awkwardly feel around like a teenager on prom night. I had more luck then than I did today.

    Anywho, I was able to rig up the motor, checked that it ran (It did, on full power, sounds like a jet engine again!) then set it in there gently and used a couple long bolts thru a couple holes in the frame to keep the motor from backing out of its place (fingers crossed emoji).

    In retrospect I’m probably lucky that I have a double sided fireplace to give me the access to the back of the stove to remove the blower motor in the first place. But I’m gonna have to build a frame to pull the stove all the way out and reinsert those tiny screws to hold it in properly. Sounds like there’s some plans around here that I’ll need to review. In the meantime I’ll be practicing my prom moves.
     
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  2. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    :rofl: :lol: good one with the fingers:Dbrings back memories of the younger days ;)
    Good luck on the slide kit :yes:
     
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  3. imacman

    imacman

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    After removing the motor, did you look to see if there were oiling holes, and try oiling it? Might have saved it a while longer and kept the new one as a spare, or vice-versa.
     
  4. bigwalleye

    bigwalleye

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    imacman: no I did not look at doing that but I will have a look at it once I clean it up.

    Q: While in back of the fireplace I cleaned out the fines collector and cleaned the ESP probe. ESP probe was pretty caked on the end of it and makes me wonder if this dirty probe could be a reason why my OEM blower was not putting out the volume it once did? ie the stove didn't think it was as hot as it really was?

    I want to add: this aftermarket blower is LOUD. I mean, the amount of air that it pushes is quite loud, not the motor/blower assembly itself. It sounds like it's 50% more powerful than my original blower. Curious if anyone else had found that to be the case? These blowers are available on Amazon and are said to work for Accentra, XXV, P35i, some others...
     
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  5. imacman

    imacman

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    Here are the "ports" you need to look for. Put 2-3 drops of 3 in 1 (Ideally in the blue can for electric motors, but standard will still work) in each port, spin the motor over, and if it's never been oiled, maybe a few more drops. If you have a "power test cable" like a lot of us made to test motors, see if it runs better. WARNING: please insulate any connections....you're working with 120 v ac.
    ConvectBlowerOilHoles.jpg
    Convectblower lube ports.jpg 3 in 1 oil.jpg
     
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  6. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather

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    Cant comment, no idea what you bought, but likely not OEM