Has the middle gaps marked .030 and the outer parts measured at .025. That seems to small for a raker height but I am not sure if that measurement is from tooth to the top of the raker or where? If the first one than that could be right?
Dang there is no way to correct a thread title!! It should read raker, but it auto corrected and now I can't correct it!
Yep there is a bar groove tool. I figured after doing it for years I may just start checking the raise heights. I just took some off every so often before. So I just lay it on the chain while on the bar and if it protrudes its too tall? I think the two middle are both .030 and eds are both .025. What should I be looking for height wise? Look in my sig line at my various saws I run.
I never paid attention what the 4 were. I just do 25 on all chains. If the saw can take more and I for some reason not happy with 25 I go 30 (not very often though). I would start at 25 and see what you and your saws like. JMO. I have one raker gauge for 40. Used once.
I have cut plenty without one. I honestly do t think I am aggressive enough on them. Some of the big saws dont pull chips like they should. Just curious to see where I am?
I was thinking feeler gauges. Good way with straight edge. But dont I use the gauge and lay on too of the chain and if the raked is above the .025 mark I just file down till its level. Day it takes 4 strokes then I would just do 4 strokesevery rdarker or so. These are not race chains just firewood chains.
Every 3-4 sharpenings I just give the rakers 3 strokes with a small flat file.A bit heavy for softer woods,not as much for White Oak,Honey Locust,Shagbark Hickory etc.Keeping the same factory profile whenever possible. Imagine my surprise about 15 months back when starting to rough out some thick Honey Locust blocks with the 2100CD using the same lowered-raker chain I forgot that was used on White Pine the week before? It was an adventure,pulled it no problem but talk about rattling your fillings!! Ripping chain I tend to have fairly aggressive also,I know what works for me & how the saws respond. I don't go too hog wild on the .404 square chisel skip chain on the Mac 125C though,that beast will practically pull you over the log (I'm barely 170 lbs lol) or twist outta your hands if you're not paying attention.
You said you wanted to see where you were at. If below your raker gage. use the feelers like I said to see where you are at.
I hate to be stupid here, but... What the heck is this tool called? Any links to learning the finer points of one? I've figured out some of the basics, but i didnt realize how many depth gauge options it had. With it having marks to align tooth angle etc. I just think I'm still missing lots.
No idea. I think I got it from baileys 10 years ago. Think I paid for it... or maybe free with something g but maybe I bought it?
Called Filemate. Cheaper other places besides that baileys place. b wants like 4.99 and 100 shipping. 2.99 here http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1344 or where I buy 3.95 http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=410
All you have to do is PM one of us.. I fixed it bud.. Or just read what you wrote. Only takes a second. They clean the bar groove, measures cutter angle, raker height, etc. .
30 can be a bit much for saws under 50 cc, standard is 25 on new chains. Flat fileing the depth gauges can result in the cutter not being able to rotate into the cut ( kind of a rocking motion)
