In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Husqvarna 550xp crank seal

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by Sackett, Dec 4, 2020.

  1. Sackett

    Sackett

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    Just got my saw back from the shop to diagnose stalling problem. It’s a Husky 550xp. Shop says the crank seal is failing and the piston and cylinder wall are scored as a result. Googled it and apparently a problem with these saws. Anyone else run into this problem? I’ve had the saw about 6 years and cut maybe 30 cord of wood. Purchased a pro grade saw because I figured it’d last a lot longer.
     
  2. Frankie 1

    Frankie 1 Banned

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    Should last a lot longer than 30 cord ! 1500-2000hrs
     
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  3. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Definitely should have went longer. There is a method to clean up cylinders with a bit of scoring and typically a new piston could get it back up and running, plus the seal replacement. Probably $30-40 for a Meteor, which are pretty good quality. Don't let them just railroad you into a complete top end if it doesn't need it. Are you mechanically inclined or close to someone that is?
     
  4. Sackett

    Sackett

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    I do a lot of work on my own equipment with a little help from YouTube lol. Would I need any special tools needed to tear it apart
     
  5. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I'll find you the videos to remove the piston transfer. I've never wrenched on a 5 series Husky but I don't think I've heard of any special tools needed for removing the cylinder. Seal replacement is a different story. I know for sure huskihl could advise there. I've done 3 series seals without anything special.
     
  6. MikeInMa

    MikeInMa

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    M2theB has one listed in his signature. Maybe he'd have a thought, or not.
     
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  7. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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  8. M2theB

    M2theB

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    I have two and one is a basket case rebuild the had the AT 7 carb that at first looked to be straight gassed, scored 360. I did replace the top but the off idle bog followed. After lots of work on the carb, I bought an AT12 that matched the coil. My favorite stock saw!
    Shouldn’t need much special to pull the cylinder. But pics from behind the muffler, easy, and on the intake, a little more work, would help.
     
  9. Sackett

    Sackett

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    That’s sweet. Thanks for the info
     
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  10. Sackett

    Sackett

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  11. Sackett

    Sackett

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    m thinking once deer season is over I may tear into it and see what I can see. It’s no good like it is. I do like the saw. It runs like a bear and never gave me any problems with starting or carb like I’ve read about from others
     
  12. M2theB

    M2theB

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    could be seals or other leak.
    Step through the trouble shooting
    Look forward to seeing what you find
     
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  13. huskihl

    huskihl

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    When you pull the cylinder, I’d try and get a good look at the case bearings. Or pull the seals and get a really good look. Wiggle the flywheel and clutch to see if there’s any play. Guessing the bearings are shot causing the crank to waller out the seals. I’m blaming it on something else because seals usually last 20 years.

    It could also be sucking air through the transfer cover o rings.

    How far NE into PA are you? There’s a member who is pretty good at this stuff in Rome, PA
     
  14. Sackett

    Sackett

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    I’m a little NE of Scranton
     
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  15. Farmchuck

    Farmchuck

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    I’d junk that miserable heart breaker & git me a Poulan wild thang!:rofl: :lol:
     
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