I am replacing the timing belt on my 04 Toyota Sequoia. I had a bad fan bracket bearing. Since it was over time to do the timing belt I went ahead and am doing it and all the associated parts for the job . Literally ever drive accessory has to come off the front of the engine. I am replacing the timing belt tensioner pulley assembly, idler, timing belt tensioner , the water pump (which had been leaking a long time I can tell), serpentine belt tensioner and going to throw a fan clutch on there. Here a few pictures since everyone loves pictures.
Finishing buttoning it up tomorrow. I just have the WP back on, T belt in place, tensioner on and crank cover and crank pulley. I only worked a few hours today. We have an extra vehicle, this is not my job and doesn't determine my paycheck, I took my time and didn't stress about completing it today. I had most of it torn down prior to today. Took about 1.5 hours to get most of the way there prior to today.
Yep, all Aisin parts. T Belt kit, Fan Bearing, and fan clutch. They are the OE supplier for Toyota. The parts on the engine are stamped Aisin...the factory parts that is. It's the cheaper way to get Toyota OEM parts without going to the dealer. All the bearings and tensioner etc are the exact same as the parts that came off it, down to the bearing manufacturer.
We had the whole shebang done on our 04 4.7 4runner as well. A few years ago. All aisin factory parts. We paid a guy to do it, and with parts I supplied, it was around $400. Not bad at all. The water pump on ours was leaking at 110k. This engine is darn near bulletproof though. When Toyota made inboard competition ski boats, they used the 4.0 v8 that this 4.7 started as. Solid...
Yea I have about $380 in parts. I put a new fan clutch on as well. Without that it would be about $330. If I didn't have a bad fan bracket and reused that I would have had about $230 in it. I only worked a few hours the last few days. Got it back started and running. I need to take the top hose off and put the shroud in and buy another gallon of antifreeze in it
Tomorrow's job will be replacing the driver side valve cover gasket that's been leaking the last few years. The last year it's been leaking a little more and spotting after parked for a day or two, before it would just kind of seep and attract dirt. I have done the passenger side and have it sealed up. While I'm doing work may as well do the jobs I have been putting off while I'm off.
Toyota has made some of the best engines ever, but I'm very opposed to timing belts. And whoever decided on the starter location for that engine deserves a square kick in the junk.
The 5.7 they went to chains. Both have their benefits. I agree a chain would probably be better. I'd rather replace a chain one every 500,000 miles on one that. A t Belt every so often. And yes that starter is 8n a terrible spot. Why not on the side or lower portion of the motor!!!??? I'm going to try to keep my battery and charging system healthy and not put any in needed strain on that starter!
...wow....haven't done any work like that in a lot of years. Don't miss it. Got up one morning when I lived in Alaska, -22F. Tried to start the '77 Honda Accord we had. Promptly welded the throw out bearing to the springs on the pressure plate. Pulled out my handy service manual to see how bad the clutch job would be. Only 6 steps listed....doesn't look too bad. Step 1. ....remove the engine. I don't miss it.
And I did the leaky driver side valve cover. I also neutralized the battery acid on the battery and removed the hold down did the same cleaned it and painted it with a few fresh coats of spray paint to protect it for a few more years.
I drove it yesterday to make sure the cooling system didn't have any air pockets and it was cooling correctly. On the way home I cut on the fan so I could use heat. The AC light blinked as it does for trouble. I turned it off, but I was wondering, I didn pinch a wire behind it when I installed it, cause it and then took it back off correctly routed the wire and continued on. This had me worried I shorted it to run all the time. I got out of the truck on way home. Looked. The AC lines were frosted up. I had the AC off but clutch was spinning. I unplugged the compressor and it still was going. So I got home drained a gallon of coolant, pulled shroud and the fan, took belt off and confirmed my thought. The AC clutch had welded it self to the pulley causing it to run all the time. I just replaced that compressor, not even a year ago( purchased it over a year prior so no warranty at this point). Denso brand which is original equipment. Hope it running and freezing up with minimal flow didn't shorten it's life too much. Got the compressor dismounted and clutch is weld to the pulley which has a snap ring holding it on, but to get to it you have to get the clutch plate off first. Couldn't really get anywhere to pry, got out the small deadblow to tap around on it and guess I hit it just right cause it came free. I had knocked it before when it was in the car and it didn't work. Let me back up to the pinched wires. I opened the loom and they looked intact. I tracked those wires and they went to the oil pressure switch and the crank sensor so they are totally un related wires. This probably had happened before the T belt job took place and because I rarely dive this vehicle I had just not noticed. Going to clean the clutch plate and pulley up and reassemble it tonight. I really hate to spend another $225 on a compressor. You can't buy anything but junk brand AC clutches for it anyway so I can't do that. I have parts from my old compressor which internally failed so the clutch on it works. It's a different design but I believe it would work if I installed it, but rather not put that old assembly on the new compressor. And I'd rather not have to spend the money on a new compressor and open up the system again.
