Can you someone recommend a good brand of wedges that are tough and will hold up? Last I bought must've been made in China, just pure junk, busted in first use. EDIT: I mean felling wedges.
I’ve got some black bear rifled felling wedges that I like. They have grooves on one side and ridges on the other so you can stack them without them sliding sideways as you drive them in. Ordered them from Bailey’s I think, only place I’ve seen em
The plastic is hard and brittle compared to a softer plastic. So if you miss swing, they have a higher tendency to snap in half. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I bought three wedges today, Archer 10" and they have grooves in them so that if you stack them to fell a tree, they stick together better to provide maximum lift. Decided to try, got a fair price.
For many years I've just made my own out of local red/white oak,hickory or ironwood (Hophornbeam) on the bandsaw.Paint them hi vis orange usually,takes just a few minutes. Last at least 2-3 yrs minimum,when they split in half eventually or otherwise wear out in the kindling box they go.
K&H . More than two stacked ( grooved/riffled or not ) with the tree's weight on them can lead to a targeted groin hurt( polite talk ). They can shoot out with enough force to knock the H out of you . How do I know ? Never tried wooden wedges....good idea, thx.
Anyone try sprinkling wood chips in between the two wedges. It helps them stay together and not spit out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice idea, will try it. BUTT: would chips 'hold' the wedges from being thrown out ? Seems they wood just slide more. There's a lot of pressure on those wedges lifting the tree. I only use wedges with a lean or close directional felling. Usually control with bore cuts when needed, setting a back tab for the final cut. Besides, I have those "tiny tiny" 16" bars that come in handy for felling larger than 16" DBH ( DBH ! ) . Quick sharpening in the lot, better control, excellent for those aging backs. Except for Western softwood loggers, pro loggers here, and those needing some testo long bars for image , longer bars make no sense for eastern felling.
Nice idea, will try it. BUTT: would chips 'hold' the wedges from being thrown out ? Seems they wood just slide more. There's a lot of pressure on those wedges lifting the tree. I only use wedges with a lean or close directional felling. Usually control with bore cuts when needed, setting a back tab for the final cut. Besides, I have those "tiny tiny" 16" bars that come in handy for felling larger than 16" DBH ( DBH ! ) . Quick sharpening in the lot, better control, excellent for those aging backs. Except for Western softwood loggers, pro loggers here, and those needing some testo long bars for image , longer bars make no sense for eastern felling.
Nice idea, will try it. BUTT: would chips 'hold' the wedges from being thrown out ? Seems they wood just slide more. There's a lot of pressure on those wedges lifting the tree. I only use wedges with a lean or close directional felling. Usually control with bore cuts when needed, setting a back tab for the final cut. Besides, I have those "tiny tiny" 16" bars that come in handy for felling larger than 16" DBH ( DBH ! ) . Quick sharpening in the lot, better control, excellent for those aging backs. Except for Western softwood loggers, pro loggers here, and those needing some testo long bars for image , longer bars make no sense for eastern felling.
