Hey everyone. Recently I have been coming across a lot of wood that is in log form. Craigslist wood, always on private property, no access to a tractor or anything to tow it with. If I can't move the logs enough to get them off the ground or roll them, what is the trick to cutting them into moveable sections without putting my chain in dirt? I need a peevee for sure but if the logs are too big for that? And cutting a high point in the log would pinch the chain when it begins to collapse. Any advice for these situations? Thanks
You need a cant hook. I'd recommend the Log rite 60" version. 60" cant hook - Logrite.com - LogRite Tools LLC
Wedges to keep your cross cut open and noodling perhaps. You'll be amazed how much the aforementioned 60" cant hook with lift bar attached will actually move weight wise.
I've had logs so big, even hanging off the Logrite, the log just laughed, and I'm not a little or weak guy. One time it let go and I flew back about 8-10' and hit my head on another log. I want to get the 78" Megahook for those monsters.
I have a 60” Stihl peavey with aluminum handle. 2 guys leaning on it won’t break it. Might be the same as Logrite.
Yes wedges, cant hook or peavey ftw Sticks jammed in the cut will hold it open too, but might as well have a bag of wedges in the tool kit.
Most of the time the log isn’t perfectly straight and the ground isn’t perfectly even. It is usually possible to divide the log some. a wedge in the cut will actually lift a log off the ground, so it is generally possible to cut without hitting dirt if you are careful. as others have said, a cant hook helps also. Between breaking things down and a cant hook, most logs can be reduced to rounds. With every cut you make, you create a new situation. Do what you can, reassess, do, repeat.
What I do when when encountering big wood on the ground, is to buck almost all the way through and make enough cuts to make a pickup load. Then change chains to an old chain and finish the cuts while still trying not to rock the chain. Changing chains takes as much time as filing a chain and you haven't rocked a good chain!
Rolling the logs is preferred, but sometimes you can't do that. If you are careful, you can cut down very close to the ground with the bar as horizontal as possible. Then drive wedge/wedges into the kerf on the top and it will pick the log up under the kerf. Then you can carefully finish the cut without hitting ground.
Depending on the size you can get the optional log stand attachment for the Stihl/Logrite cant hook. I have both the cant hook and the peavey and usually reach for the cant hook since it grips the log better. The log stand is great but can sometimes get in your way if you want to just roll/move a log. That said, I'm glad I have the log stand on both of them. I have both in the 60" size. Extremely useful for keeping your chain out of the ground.
You really need a cant. A technique I learned watching my logger buddies cutting large logs on the landing: Cable skidded logs have a lot of dirt on them. How you cut can influence how fast it dulls. The technique is to plunge cut straight through the log about 1/3 of the was from the top and bring the tip near the far side but don't go through. Then cut all the way through the log. Then push the bar the rest of the way through the log and the bark /chips will be thrown out of the cut. Come straight up to the top and finish the cut. This also will avoid the bar getting pinched in a big log with a lot of weight. The loggers always cut all the way through the log because it will tear fiber if the log is not clean cut and it will draw the wrath of the forwarder operator.
Get a peavey/cant for sure. And have wedges on hand. If a log is too big or lopsided to roll look for a high spot that you can clear under and cut thru to make it more manageable. If you have a log that you can only roll up partially and the it falls back you can lean a split or small round up against it so that as you roll the log the split/round falls in and chocks the log so it can’t roll all the way back. At that point you hopefully have that last 1” up off the ground to cut. Or you can get another bite on the log with your can’t hook and get it to roll over. Another useful tool is a pinch bar that depending on the situation can be used to lever up an end or persuade a log to slide along. Wedges will keep a cut from closing when you do have the natural high spot. Putting some scraps of dimensional lumber or appropriately sized limbs under before you make that cut will hold the log up so you might be able to get in a few more cuts without moving the log. You don’t want to lose your hard earned advantage.
The above technique works very well in many situations. I've got about 25 cord of skidded logs on my deck that have various amounts of dirt on them. Some big & some not. I use the plunge cut to good effect with semi chisel chain.
See if there is a clearing under the log and try to buck at that point so you can roll the section. Ill cut from the top until i can insert a wedge (i have my own homemade ones out of 2x lumber) keeping the bar from pinching. Plastic ones work very well too. If no clearing under a log, ive removed leaves, dirt etc and slid a board (i used to carry a piece of 1x6 just for this purpose), barks scraps, and/or skinny logs under it and watch the bar very carefully as you finish the cut. Cut from both sides if possible/feasible. Other times ill make individual cuts but not all the way through until the cut where you can go all the way, roll then finish the cuts. Sometimes its inevitable to hit a little dirt. An old well used sacrificial chain (sharpened) is another option as stated. I usually have one around. Like some have said a peavey is an indispesible tool for rolling big logs. I never knew of its existence until a few years ago. Dont use mine that often, but great to have in the hoarders arsenal! Can you wedge a 2x4/2x6 or a small round under log and lift it partially...a lever of sorts. Picture is of a 34" Norway maple trunk. Couldnt roll as on a bank. Note wood wedges (or "kerf keepers" as i call them) in cut.
The BEST thing I have found for dirty wood is a BIG saw and 404 chain. I have semi chisel on it and the amount of dirt it will tolerate is amazing.
Firewood Bandit, I don't understand your explanation. You say don't go all the way through and then right after that you say go all the way through. "Through" to me means to the other side, especially since you are describing a plunge cut. ??? Sorry I'm dense, I'd like to understand your technique. "Cable skidded logs have a lot of dirt on them. How you cut can influence how fast it dulls. The technique is to plunge cut straight through the log about 1/3 of the was from the top and bring the tip near the far side but don't go through. Then cut all the way through the log. Then push the bar the rest of the way through the log and the bark /chips will be thrown out of the cut. Come straight up to the top and finish the cut. This also will avoid the bar getting pinched in a big log with a lot of weight."
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the technique is to plunge almost all the way, then cut down. At this point you are cutting the bark and dirt closest to the saw head; The dirty chips are not getting pulled thru the entire cut thus minimizing contact with the chain. Then push the tip thru the far side and cut up, throwing the chips and dirt out in front, again minimizing contact with dirty chips and the chain. You are actually cutting the dirt from under at this point.
I don't like doing it, but a few times had to fall a tree onto a street. Be it gravel or paved, either dont like chains much. What I ended up doing was getting a chain around it after I trimmed some, made a few 4-6 foot rests from big branches and positioned them, then the old handyman jack hooked to the chain and lifted the trunks enough to get the rests under. I try to avoid this at all cost, but you do what you have to do.
