Nice job Jason. Enviable ! Our Cover It, now Shelter Logic, lasted 20 years before a tree fall helped it. The replacement cover was $650. with some minor structural repair. Locals recommended to get the round top for snow spillage. When we were thinking of a garage, the costs added up to too much with the cost of materials and pro site work. So another Shelter Logic was set up for less than $2000 . Took two of us ( brains we thought ) to fight the set up for a few days, but worth it. Like many instructions, the Shelter Logic one was %$#@&.
That is really nice; that project turned out really great. I was very interested in watching you build it because I need to get some lean-tos on the shed here; one on the long side for wood storage so it will be open in the front. Another lean-to on the back to store the garden equipment and supplies. Didn't know materials had gotten so expensive; I would like to start on them now but it may be spring. I will be working alone as well since it is just me here.
Thanks all for the critiques and compliments throughout this project. I put my Shelter Logic up in 2014 and it lasted quite a while. If memory serves me right, I paid $150 for it off craigslist. I plan on getting one or two of those 12mil 10x20 $30 Horror Freight tarps to make this water/snow/bird crap proof for winter. No way I’d even consider $600+ on a tarp! And I agree, the round top would have been better.
My friend told me that the silver ones tend to deteriorate faster than regular tarps. I noticed the same here that my silver coated tarp went faster than the other regular tarps. I replaced the 10x20 shelterlogic canopy cover with a 10x20 tarp made by foremost. If you buy from the company, you have to buy a lot but there are those on flea bay selling them.
This is part of my standard kit for hanging doors now. It was around 15 bucks. It’s an airbag that has up to 300 lb capacity. Perfect “helper” as I work alone. I use it as a holder, brace, shim, etc to hold things up and plumb all the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The "$600." was a Shelter Logic replacement 14.5 oz cover for the olde CoverIt tree victim. It's made to fit the shelter. Those cheap, made-in-China tarps from HF have a life of UV milli seconds . We have a 15 year old heavy boat cover ( never called "scabbard" BTW ) that is still solid for covers.
By the way, I built some doors like the ones you built and after a bit of time, they wanted to sag and drag at the corner opposite the hinges. I got a heavy duty turn-buckle and it solved the issue and the doors have been good ever since; that that was many many years ago.
Bumping this thread for some potential help/advise. This roof condensates on warmer days that freeze at night. I better stop ignoring it or the wood will deteriorate. It’s not really bad, there is no mold or mildew growth from it. Does anyone know if/what I can spray or paint on the underside to help? I’ve searched on this but I’m unsure on the best course of action. There are anti-condensation coatings but they are not cheap. But if they do work, I’ll bite the bullet. Wondering if expanding spray insulation would do the trick? I’m not willing to strip the metal roof.
I'd say ventilation is going to be the key...I used to have the same problem in my shop until I put some roof vents in...that took care of 95% of the problem.
Ventilation was already mentioned, and should help a lot. The other likely factors are large sudden temperature swings, which insulation could help with (spray-on insulation works well in this application but is expensive), and indoor moisture. Having a bare dirt/gravel floor lets a lot of moisture into the building; do you have plans to pour concrete? If not, you could try a vapor barrier (Tyvek or plastic) under a couple inches of gravel, but of course that will end up with some holes in it and let a little moisture through, but not as much as bare dirt. A vapor barrier under concrete would be the best barrier. Good luck!
Without knowing exact measurements, I’d say from the door back about 4’ is concrete the full width. From there, I dug small trenches for treated 2x4 framing to which I screwed down a plywood floor the whole way back except under that rack. I did place a plastic vapor barrier under the ply. 2 layers of probably contractor trash bag thickness material. I did this for the mobile bases on which my woodworking tools are on. So the only “bare ground” is under the rack, although as seen in the earlier pics, is 5-8” of crush and run gravel.
The open ground doesn’t help as it’s easy for moisture to get through. In order to stop it you’ll have to add an R value of some sort. Even house wrap is enough to stop it. Best way would be to remove the tin, put something down and then screw the tin back down. Cardboard stapled to the perlins or sides of the rafters would be enough to stop it as well
